A Nice Hotel In A Tiny Yorkshire Village

REETH, Yorkshire

I found the Burgoyne Hotel by accident. My first choice--in another part of Yorkshire--was fully booked, so I came across the Burgoyne and decided to take a chance. We were delighted since we like to stay in small and unique places. The Burgoyne was originally the home of a prominent local family in this village of 200, and it still feels homey. The public rooms are tastefully furnished and clean, and our bedroom, the Marrick, as close to perfect as it could be, with a four poster king size bed and a huge, carpeted bathroom that doubled as a dressing room. It's the nicest room in the house and overlooks the pleasant village green, which is particularly interesting on market day.

Olga irons at her desk.

The Burgoyne is meticulously cared for by the owner, Derek Hickson, who welcomes you, answers questions, waits tables and supervises a pleasant, agreeable staff. Olga minds the reception office off the front hall, and in her spare time irons the dining room's linen napkins with a small, portable "mangle" (iron) on her desk. Where else but Yorkshire would you find someone ironing at the reception desk?

A lazy river, winding roads, drystone walls and high moors views.

I'm constantly on the lookout for places that haven't been ruined by tourism, and this part of Yorkshire is nearly perfect when it comes to being unspoiled. The countryside is beautiful, varying between winding roads shaded by tall trees, the lazy Swaledale River meandering through a valley surrounded by green hills and high, treeless and windy moors with breathtaking views. In the valleys sheep graze between checkered drystone fences that climb up the valley walls.

Bolton Castle imprisoned Mary, Queen of Scots

Having just seen a version of Elizabeth I on Masterpiece Theatre, the nearby Bolton Castle was interesting to tour, as Elizabeth had Mary, Queen of Scots imprisoned there for six months in 1568. A recorded narration of the history of the castle is played on a loudspeaker in a loop.

Visit Wensleydale cheese factory via Buttertubs Pass.

The famous Wensleydale cheese (sold in the States) is made in Hawes, about an hour away by car, and their cheese shop is very popular. On the way back I picked a different route over the moors, via Buttertubs Pass, since it was highly recommended as a scenic route. Some of the locals had warned me the road dropped off precipitously on one side, but I found it pretty tame next to Pike's Peak or Big Sur. The name is derived from the shape of the eroded rocks that form the canyon below. The views at the top in some spots are almost 360 degrees.

Market Day on the village green.

Friday is market day in Reeth and we woke up to vendors setting up their booths on the green. It's always fun to see how market days differ in various parts of Britain, so we visited, but didn't buy.

Scenes from "All Creatures Great and Small".

These are some of the old stomping grounds of James Harriot, author of the much loved books written about his experiences as a vet in Yorkshire. The TV series featured many scenes from this area. If you're interested in this part of Yorkshire check your local library for a copy of "James Harriot's Yorkshire", written by him, with beautiful photographs throughout by Derry Brabbs. It is a wonderful guided tour through the countryside. I really value the copy I own and refer to it every so often when I want to be reminded of this terrific trip.

The natives are friendly!

The locals are genuinely pleasant and helpful, and if you ask them a question they answer as if you've done them a favor by asking. If you're looking for action or night life this isn't the place to go, unless you're interesting in pub hopping the two pubs in town. If you're looking for a peaceful, unhurried atmosphere, unspoiled and picturesque landscapes and a comfortable place to settle, the Burgoyne in Reeth will please you. The food is good, but less expensive fare can be found at a charming 18th Century inn about 10 miles north in Arkengarthdale, The Charles Bathurst Inn (advance reservations recommended) or the local pubs. Good lunches at Overton House Café, across from the Burgoyne.

At the Burgoyne, where breakfast is included, have the Eggs Benedict for breakfast. (The Baby Benny is one egg.)

Photos top to bottom
Reeth Village green
Countryside surrounding Reeth
Olga, the receptionist
Our bedroom, the Marrick, at the Burgoyne Hotel