SOOKE, B.C. (Vancouver Island)
British Columbia, and especially the west coast and Vancouver Island, are rare jewels of natural beauty, combining ocean views, mountains, green conifer forests, and clean air. The capital of British Columbia is Victoria, on Vancouver Island just off the mainland, but Vancouver the city, is on the mainland itself and is B.C.'s largest city. This can be confusing to those who haven't been there.
Vancouver the city feels international
We are fortunate enough to live on a small island about halfway between Seattle and the Canadian border, and every few years we revisit either Vancouver or Vancouver Island. They are quite different and offer contrasting atmospheres. The city of Vancouver has an international flavor, and is certainly the most "European" city on the west coast of the North American Continent. The differences are apparent even as we catch glimpses of it far ahead of us on the freeway when we drive there.
Vancouver Island feels English
Vancouver Island, on the other hand, has a distinctly English flavor, particularly Victoria, on the southeast tip of the island, with its Empress Hotel, Parliament Building, and area surrounding the harbor. On a first visit to Vancouver Island, Victoria is a must-see. If you have time, take a bus from downtown to Oak Bay and walk the residential area to get a real feel of England, or stay at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel, which has fabulous views and a private beach, as well as beautiful gardens. (It used to be an old half-timbered hotel with creaky floors, which I loved, but it's being rebuilt, now in pseudo-Tudor style, to be completed in 2010, so who knows if it's going to be an improvement.)
Sooke, Hartmann House near Victoria yet rural
Sooke is one of our favorite places on Vancouver Island because it's only about a half hour's ride from the ferry terminal and on the edge of beautiful wilderness areas and wild, unsullied beaches. The last time we were there we stayed at a little treasure of a Bed and Breakfast, Hartmann House. It's been voted 4th favorite B&B in Canada by the North American Inns Bed & Breakfast and Resorts Magazine, and is listed in both the Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest, and Northwest Best Places. Rambling and quaint, with weathered siding, the house is set in an English cottage garden that has been featured in a national magazine.
You have to pay careful attention to directions or go right by it as we did, but it's a gem of a place and well worth the price. (It used to be a bargain for Americans because of the exchange rate, but since the $ has lost so much ground it's a pretty even dollar for Canadian dollar.)
Although it's on the main road from Victoria, it sits well above the road and out of sight and sound of traffic. It's perfect for a honeymoon, especially if you book the Honeymoon Suite, which has a king bed, sofa, soaking tub and separate shower. It's very private, with its own entrance (as with the other B&B room) and tiny patio, with views out to woods and part of the garden. Ray Hartmann is a retired cabinet maker and a true artist of his craft. He has made everything in the house that's wood, including the beds. Ann, his wife, serves a delicious breakfast at the time you specify when you check in, and delivers it on a tea cart each morning inside a tiny butler's pantry adjoining your room. She knocks discreetly on the door to let you know it's there and you eat whenever you wish. If you ask she'll give advice on where to eat dinner and make reservations for you. The couple couldn't be nicer!
With the exception of Victoria, Vancouver Island is for outdoor types and you can find hiking trails, as well as scenic drives up the coast through nearly virgin forests.
Sooke Harbor House is a world renowned resort nearby, which we found to be over-rated. We stayed once and were disappointed in the room as well as the poor service in the restaurant. For the cost I feel it should have been better. Others have been known to rave about it.
Vancouver Island is accessed by ferry from Vancouver and Tswwassen on the Canadian mainland, or from Seattle, Anacortes and Port Angeles in the U.S. Check the transportation web site.
Photos top to bottom
Hartmann House
Private patio outside Honeymoon Suite
Honeymoon Suite
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