ČESKÝ KRUMLOV, Czech Republic
"You made it!" Jiří Vaclavíček, innkeeper extraordinaire, greeted me enthusiastically at the check-in desk of his small and immaculate hotel/apartment just off the square in Český Krumlov. (Pronounced CHES-key KROOM-loff)
Web site has valuable information & suggestions for visiting
I had called him in a panic the night before after I landed in Prague. For almost a year I had planned this visit and followed the suggestion on his excellent web site, which was to buy an advance bus ticket at the Student Agency bus booth at the airport, just outside of the baggage claim area. The trouble was, all the seats were sold out for the following day, the only day I had free before the start of a self-guided course in Prague. Jiří gave me the name of a private driver, Mike, but when I called he was already booked and my heart sank. But Mike was determined to help me and located another driver who was able to pick me up the following morning at 9:30 on the dot. My first encounter with the people of the Czech Republic turned out to be the pattern I ran into during my entire visit. The Czech people are thoughtful and kind and will do everything they can to help.
A beautifully preserved medieval town with narrow cobbled streets and lanes
Perhaps the thing that was most important for me--a person who has no sense of direction--was the fact that the town is nestled in a bend of the Vlatava River, the same river that dominates Prague, meaning it is virtually impossible to get lost exploring the interesting shops and architecture. You'll eventually see the river again or a familiar landmark, so you can just wander and appreciate what you see.
The town is dominated by a castle on a hill above, but in this country castles are different from the ones you might see in Great Britain, France or Germany. The architecture isn't as fanciful, so I concentrated on the village itself, which is a total delight. Although crowded with tourists it still has not lost its charm, and you don't see parking lots of tour buses--yet.
There's a great Tourist Information Center right on the square, and as soon as I checked in at the hotel, Castle View Apartments (the seven apartments have kitchens, so you can stay for extended visits and cook instead of eating out), I went directly to the Information Center to buy a return ticket on the following day's Student Agency bus. I also rented an audio walking tour, or as an alternative, you can hire Jiří, who doubles as a guide.
Rent a canoe and join the rest of the novice sailors!
I spent an amusing hour watching hapless canoeists as they navigated a small river waterfall beneath the castle. The river is shallow here, so if you use common sense it isn't dangerous. If you don't feel like paddling, do it on a supervised raft. It was a beautiful October day, but since I failed to see anyone who didn't get wet sooner or later--on canoes or in rafts--I'd advise wearing clothes that will dry quickly.
If you're a castle person make your reservation at the castle office when you arrive, for the interior is open only to guided tours and they are often booked solid. I skipped it on the advice of one guidebook which stated the tour is slow and the castle not much by European standards.
Puppets are big in the Czech Republic
I found the puppet shops in the Czech Republic fascinating. Puppets have been big in this country for centuries, and at one time they had traveling troupes. The ones in shops are strictly for souvenirs, for "real" puppets, the ones used in staged productions, can cost thousands. Still, it is fun to look at the varied characters and it's something children can enjoy too.
Pictures, top to bottom:
Castle View Apartments, center, end of lane under small sign
The Castle
People eating lunch at one of many riverside cafes
From a viewpoint above the town
Street scene
Street scene with castle in background
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