Prague

PRAGUE, Czech Republic

Whiffs of garlic on the tram; excellent food in even the smallest cafes; music drifting from churches, concert halls, and the Charles Bridge; a visual feast of architectural design and color; getting lost in winding, cobbled lanes among hordes of tourists; friendly people willing to help a hapless traveler...lingering memories of this great city that has remained intact through both World Wars. It's the hottest place to visit in Europe right now.

Rebirth after Nazis and Communists

In the last century Prague suffered the invasion of the German army; the subsequent Communist takeover that lasted decades and drained joy from the country; and finally the 1989 Velvet Revolution that restored the city to its former glory and pride. There are still grim remnants of the Communists, a few of which you see on the way to somewhere else: the huge 250,000 capacity Strahov Stadium, built for Communist events and now useless and rotting away; blocks of grey, drab "sameness" apartment buildings at the edge of the city.

It's not Eastern Europe!

Before visiting the Czech Republic I referred to it as "Eastern Europe". But Czechs are very adamant about the fact that they are not located in the east; but rather, the central part of Europe. And it makes sense if you look at a map.

Czech people warm & friendly

With the exception of taxi drivers, many of whom are notoriously dishonest, I found the Czech people kind and thoughtful. Once, when I was trying to ask a question at a shopping center information desk a young woman waiting behind me interrupted, saying, "I translate for you," and she did. Many, though not all, people speak English, and understandably, it's primarily the young people who speak it.

Above all, a musc loving city

If you love music you'll love Prague. People stand on every street corner to hand out flyers announcing classical musical concerts, and during the 8 days I was there I was able to go to 3 concerts, which were excellent. I met another woman who had been to a full opera--starring puppets.

Master the Metro & trams and you have it made

Once you master the means of transportation in a large city you can begin to feel comfortable, armed with a good map. Prague has the Metro (subway), tram (light rail) and buses. Metro and tram routes are marked on most maps of the city and will take you within a few blocks of the tourist sights if you're staying at a hotel that isn't within walking distance of them. The hotels have adequate maps, but the best maps I've seen are the Streetwise series of laminated fold-out maps of large cities purchased in this country. If it rains you won't see the map disintegrate or get ink on your hands.

Be prepared for crowds

Because the American dollar goes farther in the Czech Republic and Central Europe in general the city is overrun with tourists, so unless you don't mind fighting crowds try to go in the off season. You risk weather changes, but for me it was worth it. And take a Czech phrase book. You'll never pronounce the words correctly, but the Czechs love it!

Photos, from top to bottom

Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral dominate the skyline

Kinsky Palace and Tyne Church

Artists and musicians perform on the Charles Bridge

Lesser Town bridge gates with St. Nicholas Church in the background

Storm clouds threaten as artists and musicians perform on the Charles Bridge

Ministry of Local Development (yellow building on right)