Great Places To Visit...Places I've Been

Getting Around In Central London

2009-10-18T04:59:00.000-07:00

LONDON, ENGLAND

London has become a teeming mass of people & traffic chaos--sensory overload. Even the Congestion Fee imposed during the day seems to have had little or no effect on traffic jams, & while the Underground (or tube, as most people call it) spares you auto & bus traffic on the streets, they are becoming almost intolerably crowded too.

On our last visit to London we made a point of trying to find our way everywhere by using the bus--those ubiquitous red buses one sees everywhere, many of which are double deckers. We not only wanted to see how it compared to using the tube, we wanted to sightsee along the way. On most of London's busiest arterials designated bus lanes make it easier than taxis to navigate, & in central London we found the schedules are such that we didn't usually have to wait more than 10 minutes for a bus--usually much less.

Travelcards (for visitors) or Oyster cards are far cheaper than paying for individual tickets on the bus or the tube & can be used on either. You can get details on the Transport for London website. Briefly, there are 1 or 3 day Travelcards. If you're only there for one day & will be traveling after 9:30 a.m. or anytime on weekends a card will cost you £5.10 for unlimited travel. (Regular price for an individual ride is £4, so if you ride somewhere once it will cost another £4 to come back.) Three day cards are £15.40 for travel any time. Cards for either individual or 1 or 3 day passes are inserted into a slot in the tube turnstile. They pop up as you go through to the other side, so hang onto them unless it's a one ride ticket.

Oyster cards are like pre-loaded credit cards & are used by the "natives". You pay a £3 non-refundable fee for the card & load it in £10 increments, but it never expires. Each time you use it the fare is automatically deducted when you pass it across a yellow disc (about the size of a pancake) at the tube turnstile or as you board a bus. If you visit London more than once your Oyster card will always be good & you'll never pay more than a 1 day Travelcard, but even if you're there once, from 4-7 consecutive days, the 7 day Oyster card, at £22.20, with unlimited peak time travel within Zones 1 & 2, is your best buy. Most of London's tourist attractions are within Zones 1 & 2.

Most hotels can supply you with bus route brochures & detailed schedules are posted at bus stops so it's not difficult to plot a course to wherever you want to go. Double deckers served most of the routes we used so it was fun riding upstairs & enjoying the sightseeing as well as observing the madding crowds from a distance. We decided it was a good way to go.

It's a good idea to carry with you a London A-Z (called A through Zed by Londoners), which is a detailed street map, as well as Rick Steve's London.

Micro-Destination: Christ Church, Oxford University

2009-09-23T09:10:00.000-07:00

OXFORD, ENGLAND

Oxford University is the oldest English-speaking university in the world with 9 centuries of continuous existence to add to its prestige. Kings, Prime Ministers, U.S. Presidents, Actors, Nobel Prize Winners, Saints, Archbishops & Cardinals have all studied or taught at Oxford.

Although it is one of 39 colleges that make up the University, Christ Church is never referred to as "Christ Church College", as in "Trinity College". It is simply Christ Church, the home of the smallest of England's ancient cathedrals as well as the largest and most architecturally impressive college in Oxford.

Wolsey & Henry VIII founded college

Founded in 1525 by Cardinal Wolsey, as Cardinal College, it was refounded by Henry VIII in 1532 after Wolsey fell out of favor. It was never finished according to Wolsey's plan, so only the Hall, the unfinished quadrangle, the lower part of the gatehouse & the old Priory were allowed to survive. The old priory church became the cathedral of the new diocese of Oxford as well as the college chapel; the Dean appointed by the Crown.

Spartan quarters for students

As participants in a conference on the Middle East we were residents of the college for one week. Housed in student housing in the ponderous, Victorian Gothic Meadow building, we lived in spartan quarters in a room with 2 cots, a simple lounge chair, a night stand and large desk. It was 3 floors up and no lift, but we requested and were given (after a sizable upgrade charge) an ensuite room. Some participants had to make do with a community bathroom. It was easy to imagine myself sequestered as safely as a nun at Christ Church (except for the presence of my husband), for once outside Tom Gate, the main entry point of the college, the cacophony & activity on the streets of Oxford seemed almost frenzied after the peace & solitude of the college inside the quadrangle.

The Hall recreated for Harry Potter movie

Meals were served in The Hall, easily recognized from the Harry Potter movie. As we learned, however, the room was recreated for the movie when college officials refused to take down the official portraits lining the walls. We were impressed with the quality of food, as well as the service. Each dinner was a gourmet treat; breakfast a full English breakfast. Adhering to the Christ Church custom we stood behind our chairs each evening until grace was read in Latin by the Dean.

Colleges open to visitors

We encountered many visitors led by guides, others individually consulting guidebooks & taking photos. All the colleges are open to visitors at their regular hours. Christ Church is open Mon.-Sat., 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; Sun. 12 noon to 5:30 (4:30 in winter). There is an admission charge. Consult their website http://www.chch.ox.ac.uk/

Photos top to bottom:

The Hall, Christ Church, recreated for the Harry Potter film

Christ Church quadrangle & Tom Gate Tower

Meadow, the Victorian Gothic dormitory where we lived

Hall outside Cathedral

Oxford, England - Inspector Morse's Stamping Ground

2009-09-22T12:55:00.000-07:00

OXFORD, ENGLAND

For most PBS fans, myself included, Inspector Morse was a favorite to look forward to each week and, like any popular TV drama, when it ended with the death of John Thaw, who played the lead character, we all mourned.

Oxford is more than historic

That's why, before you see historic Oxford & visit various colleges you may want to take special note some of Morse's old stomping grounds & film locations.

Christ Church featured in many episodes

Christ Church, where we stayed for a conference, (see above) is the Wolsey College of The Daughters of Cain, where the unpleasant Ted Brooks, whose body is found in the river, had been a "scout" (what the college calls a sort of servant. A scout made up our room every day.) The interior of the library is shown in another episode, & in still another Morse & Lewis walk from the library through another part of the campus & then into the Tom Quad (the quadrangle of Christ Church, with the Tom Tower as the centerpiece). The quad makes an appearance in several other episodes too, and the Meadow, which we looked out upon from our bedroom window & after which our "dormitory" was named, was also a film location. The Meadow is a favorite sort of park for tourists & residents alike, for it is lined with trees and has a well tended grassy area that people lounge on. We noticed it was always well used.

Randolph Hotel has Morse Bar

We had breakfast one morning in the bar of the Randolph Hotel, one of Morse's watering holes. We had awakened early with jet lag, and since breakfast in The Hall at Christ College, where we were conference participants, wasn't until 8:30 we decided to look for someplace that would serve an early breakfast. We asked several people on the street and the consensus was the only place that was open at that hour was the Randolf, aside from McDonald's. The dining room, it turned out, was only open to guests of the hotel, but it was suggested we could get service in the bar. Our waiter simply took empty plates into the dining room & filled them from the buffet there after we ordered. It was good, if a bit pricey since the Randolf has a 5 star rating, & as we left we noticed a decal sign on the window that said "Morse Bar". You can have tea there, too, or cocktails before you dine elsewhere. (Jamie Oliver's Italian Restaurant is not too far from there & they have delicious food.)

In all, 16 colleges have been used in various episodes, as well as other public buildings and museums in the area. If you prefer a more professional approach to finding Morse's Oxford, there is a walking tour available every Saturday, which can be found on Oxford's web site: http://www.visitoxford.org

PHOTO

The Randolph Hotel

Micro-Destination: An Ancient Norman Church, Oxfordshire

2009-09-17T10:44:00.000-07:00

IFFLEY, OXFORDSHIRE, ENGLAND

A pleasant 2 mile walk along a towpath beside the Thames in Oxford will take you to the picturesque village of Iffley, where you'll find a small boat lock and the ancient Norman church St. Mary the Virgin. Built in 1170 by Robert de San Remy, a wealthy immigrant from Normandy (Remember the Norman Invasion of 1066), it is one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in England, remarkably preserved & retaining its original simplicity of architecture.

Early neglect served to preserve it; Reformation brought changes

In 1383 the manor of Iffley passed to the lords of Donnington (Newbury), who cared little for Iffley so did little to change the church, other than put in larger windows & a rood screen.

During the Reformation, however, early wall paintings were considered idolatrous so were whitewashed, replaced by biblical texts. Side chapels were blocked up & plastered over, the roof was replaced with a lower one & the pulpit raised so everyone could see the preacher.

Other minor changes were made during the 19th century, and in 1995 the church was restored & refurbished.

Of particular interest on the exterior are the west front, with perfect geometrical proportions & beautiful carvings, including two rows of beakheads with an outer molding of figurative carvings around the entrance.

Vicarage available to rent

The original vicarage was a large building in front of the church, now too large to be economical for one person. It has been acquired by the Land Trust & made available for public rental. The vicar lives in a small portion of the building, & the rest, large enough to accommodate 6 people, at about $2,800/week. See the Land Trust web site below:

(Directions: Walk south from Christ Church on St. Aldate's Street to Folly Bridge on the Thames. Cross the bridge & take footpath on the left, beside sightseeing boat ramp.)

http://bookings.landmarktrust.org.uk/BuildingDetails/Photos/220/The_Old_Parsonage

PHOTOS

Exterior, St. Mary the Virgin, Iffley

Entrance detail, beautifully preserved

Interior

Micro-Destination: Kartchner Caverns AZ

2009-02-17T09:58:00.000-08:00

BENSON, AZ

James Kartchner was the first to notice something odd about his property in southeastern Arizona as he rode horseback tending his cattle herd. His horses hooves made a peculiar hollow sound on the limestone rock.

Whetsone Mountains known for extensive limestone deposits; sinkholes

An area rich in limestone may contain caves since limestone dissolves when water seeps through it, forming underground cavities. There had been talk of possible caves beneath the Whetstone Mountains, an area riddled with sinkholes as well as the most extensive limestone deposits in southern Arizona, but so far no important discoveries had been reported.

Discovered by cavers but kept secret

Then, in 1974, two young cavers stumbled on an open area in a sinkhole large enough for them squeeze through and explore, and what they found so astonished and thrilled them that they kept their find a secret for four years while they could decide what to do. They feared tourist invasion & resulting vandalism that occurred in other caves and wanted to preserve this beautiful natural phenomenon.

One of the few "living caverns" in the world

What makes these caverns particularly fascinating is that it's one of the few "living caverns" in the world, and possibly the only that is open to the public while employing extreme measures to keep it pristine. A living cavern is one that is still evolving; water is continuing to seep in through cracks in the outside surface; stalactites and stalagmites are still being formed. In order to preserve this state the atmosphere is kept as near to its original condition as possible. This is done by controlling the number of people inside at any one time, and at the end of the day washing down the elevated tour paths and any rocks that have been touched with distilled water.

Precautions taken to preserve the original

Before boarding a three car tram that takes you to the entrance of the caverns you're told nothing can be brought into the caves except the clothing on your body; no cameras, purses, backpacks, etc. If you don't wish to leave your belongings in your car lockers are provided. Since the atmosphere inside the cavern is in the 70s, with almost 100% humidity your jacket or sweater must be rolled up and wrapped tightly around your waist.

After proceeding through an air lock that prevents outside air from entering you are told nothing must be touched with the exception of railings on the paths. If you accidentally touch something or observe something being touched you are to report it to the guide who will include the violated spot in the nightly wash down. Lighting is kept to a minimum; turned on only as a tour group approaches and turned off as they move on. The result of all this precaution is the advantage of seeing what a "real" cave looks like.

Arizona park system purchases property

Four years after their discovery--in 1978--the two cavers finally informed the Kartchners, who agreed on the importance of preserving this cavern of wonders. They were "in complete disbelief at it's size and beauty," according to a Kartchner son. "It was almost a sacred experience, so exquisite and out of this world."

Finally, in 1988, after appealing to state authorities, the cavern was purchased by Arizona State Parks and is still being explored. It is now open to the public on guided tours at 20 minute intervals by appointment only. (Buy tickets online)

Directions: 49 miles southeast of Tucson. Take Interstate 10 to exit 302, State Route 90, and follow signs. Kartchner Caverns State Park entrance is on the right side of the road.

Micro-Destination: Seattle's Pike Place Market

2009-01-05T11:40:00.000-08:00

SEATTLE, WA

When you live on a rural island 60 miles north of Seattle a visit to the "big city" can be classified as a travel event. We usually drive in for an overnight a couple of times a year--usually to meet friends or relatives who are passing through and can't make the long trip to the island for one reason or another, but even if we aren't meeting anyone we like to take advantage of special promotions offered by our favorite hotel, The Vintage Park, a four-star boutique hotel right in the center of the city. It's a nice romantic getaway with a little shopping thrown in.

Market's a fun place worth exploring

The Pike Place Market tops my list for fun shopping, with excellent produce, fish and hundreds of interesting products to browse through. We followed that with a leisurely dinner at Tulio's downstairs in the hotel before hitting those luxurious sheets that feel like silk. (There are also excellent restaurants and hotels in the Market neighborhood.) The Pike Place Fish Market can deliver your selected fresh seafood to your home, or, you can order online or by phone (800-542-7732). Shipping charges can be prohibitive, however, depending on where you live. The Wall Street Journal recently reviewed 4 businesses in different parts of the country that shipped fresh fish and found The Pike Place Fish Market to be one of the best ones.

Renovations imminent

It was great seeing the old Market as it is once more before it gets a $75 million face lift financed by the taxpayers. The city administration promises to preserve the architecture while making improvements to the electrical and heating systems, as well as adding restrooms and handicapped accessibility. We can only hope they don't change too much. It's a very special place that everyone wants to keep just the way it is. Over 100 years old, the Market is packed with everything you can imagine and some of the most colorful characters you'll ever see. And besides, I have a floor tile there with my name on it that I like to check on once in awhile. I was told by several of the vendors that people even bring cleaning supplies to brighten up their personal tiles, but I don't go that far!

Fresh flower displays and finger food always popular

The Market is teeming with people no matter what time of the year you choose, but if you can hit it early in the day you'll be able to walk through easily and if it's summer it's worth the visit just to see the mountains of beautiful fresh flower displays for sale. I put off buying some until I stuff myself with finger food purchased at some of the many small stands in the covered market itself or across the street. (The sweet peas are particularly magnificent!)

Market has 200 year-round businesses; craftspeople, farmer & street performers

One day is never enough to explore this one-of-a-kind market place that has nearly 200 year round commercial businesses, including the original Starbucks store, 190 crafts people, 120 farmers, 240 street performers (you won't see performers early in the morning, so plan accordingly). Tours are available, but not necessary. See the Market office at the corner of lst & Pike Street. Whatever you do, don't forget to go downstairs--it's easy to miss the signs--where you'll find warrens of specialty shops in a maze of hallways.

Photos, top to bottom:

Entrance to Market, office at the left side of photo

An eye catching display of strung peppers

One of the fresh fish vendors

A beautifully arranged vegetable table

Czech Republic: A Brief Recent History

2008-11-28T05:40:00.000-08:00

PRAGUE, Czech Republic

At the edge of a small public park near the center of Prague the front half of a pink tank tilts toward the sky. It's made to look as though the back half is buried in the ground; the kind of thing a tourist will look at, shrug, and walk on. Just another piece of pop art. But the tank has a deeper significance, explained to me by a native as we drove by one day.

A small reminder of Communism

During the Soviet occupation the tank was put on display there as a symbol of Soviet power. One morning the Russians discovered someone had snuck in during the night and painted the tank pink in a show of contempt for the occupation. It was promptly repainted its original color only to be repainted pink the following night. Authorities decided to ignore the second insult and so the tank remained there, pink, until the end of the occupation*.

After the Velvet Revolution in 1989 most reminders of Communism were removed, but part of the pink tank remained as a monument to Czech resistance. The Czechs are free again, thriving under capitalism, but choose to retain this reminder of what it was like to see foreign tanks in their public spaces.

Czechoslovakia burdened by years of foreign occupation

Though an oversimplification of what were years of grief, alienation, torture and forced labor, the country of Czechoslovakia was partitioned and occupied by the Germans during World War II, then liberated and occupied by Russians after the war until 1989. In the years leading up to that time student uprisings stirred the rest of the population and eventually brought about the Velvet Revolution, the bloodless downfall of Communism. Borders were adjusted and two countries emerged, The Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Country was once the most socialistic in Europe

Prior to 1989, during the Communist regime, the country was the most socialistic in Europe. No private ownership was allowed, with the exception of one's own home, and it was against the law to make a profit. Emigrating was not permitted, but those who managed to leave by secretive means left behind their property, all of which was confiscated by whatever authorities were in power. Key industries were taken over by the government and then the farms were collectivized. Everything was owned by the state and people lost contact with the concept of ownership. Although everyone was required to work, production and quality were poor, owing primarily to low morale and inferior raw material. Prices were also low but consumer goods--even food--was scarce, and as lunch hours became shopping time the "hour" stretched to two and two and a half to permit queueing for meager supplies. Sometimes people queued just because there was a queue, not sure whatever they were waiting for would be something they needed, but reluctant to pass it up--just in case. Such exotic food such as bananas and other fruit were only available for holidays and was prohibitively expensive.

Owning a car a privilege; wait was three years

Our lecturer related how his father had ordered a car and then waited three years before it was delivered. It wasn't the color he wanted but it was a car and he had no choice in the matter. "Options" such as we know them in this country, did not exist. You simply took what you got and were happy to have a car at all, but the vehicles were so poorly made that one had to be a mechanic or know a good one in order to keep them running. We learned that the auto workers were actually forced laborers, most just political prisoners with no manual labor training, so it was no surprise the cars were of inferior quality. The worker who didn't attach a fender properly might be a musician or an artist serving out his sentence.

Household appliances had to be obtained through waiting lists and as a result of constant shortages corruption flourished; if you were willing to pay a price you might not have to wait as long.

Privatization slow in taking hold

With the overthrow of Communism a market economy slowly began to emerge and privatization return. If a person had papers to prove he had owned a business or a house before the Nazi and Communist takeover he stood a good chance of getting it back. A Ministry of Privatization was established and citizens were issued voucher coupons worth 1,000 points. The coupons were to be used as investment capital that would buy them shares in businesses or stock, but it took some time before people understood this aspect of capitalism. In the meantime conditions were again ripe for corruption.

Characteristics of a free society were soon evident as a stock exchange formed, investment groups learned the power of pooled funds, and new competition from the West challenged industries, primarily the automotive industry. Śkoda, the only company manufacturing cars, entered into a deal with Volkswagen in which they bought engines from VW while retaining their own bodies. In a completely positive turnaround, the Czech Republic is now exporting cars of good quality.

Shopping mall not up to Western standards

My hotel was within walking distance of what I understood was Prague's biggest shopping mall in the Andel neighborhood. I checked it out one day and to me it looked more like a football stadium than a shopping mall--at least from the outside. Once inside it was pretty typical of older malls in America, with a variety of specialty shops, including a small Marks & Spencer (a British department store), and Tesco, (a British grocery store) that was two stories. You wheeled your cart onto an escalator type ramp and it took you to the second floor.

Tourism important

Tourism is an important part of the Czech economy, their best years from 1998-2004, when people were finally becoming aware it was again okay to travel there. The Czech currency is the fastest growing currency in the world, and the next decision they will have to make is whether their economy would be better off based on the Euro.

Free health care

Czechs enjoy free health care today as they did under Communism. The difference is the quality and the fact that it is paid for with taxes, but their salaries are eight times what they earned under Communism. Most people are satisfied with that arrangement.

*This version differs slightly from the official version in Wikipedia

Photos:

The infamous pink tank (Photo from Wikipedia)
Prague on a misty morning as seen from the Prague Castle garden
Andel shopping mall looks more like a football stadium

Prague

2008-10-24T11:03:00.000-07:00

PRAGUE, Czech Republic

Whiffs of garlic on the tram; excellent food in even the smallest cafes; music drifting from churches, concert halls, and the Charles Bridge; a visual feast of architectural design and color; getting lost in winding, cobbled lanes among hordes of tourists; friendly people willing to help a hapless traveler...lingering memories of this great city that has remained intact through both World Wars. It's the hottest place to visit in Europe right now.

Rebirth after Nazis and Communists

In the last century Prague suffered the invasion of the German army; the subsequent Communist takeover that lasted decades and drained joy from the country; and finally the 1989 Velvet Revolution that restored the city to its former glory and pride. There are still grim remnants of the Communists, a few of which you see on the way to somewhere else: the huge 250,000 capacity Strahov Stadium, built for Communist events and now useless and rotting away; blocks of grey, drab "sameness" apartment buildings at the edge of the city.

It's not Eastern Europe!

Before visiting the Czech Republic I referred to it as "Eastern Europe". But Czechs are very adamant about the fact that they are not located in the east; but rather, the central part of Europe. And it makes sense if you look at a map.

Czech people warm & friendly

With the exception of taxi drivers, many of whom are notoriously dishonest, I found the Czech people kind and thoughtful. Once, when I was trying to ask a question at a shopping center information desk a young woman waiting behind me interrupted, saying, "I translate for you," and she did. Many, though not all, people speak English, and understandably, it's primarily the young people who speak it.

Above all, a musc loving city

If you love music you'll love Prague. People stand on every street corner to hand out flyers announcing classical musical concerts, and during the 8 days I was there I was able to go to 3 concerts, which were excellent. I met another woman who had been to a full opera--starring puppets.

Master the Metro & trams and you have it made

Once you master the means of transportation in a large city you can begin to feel comfortable, armed with a good map. Prague has the Metro (subway), tram (light rail) and buses. Metro and tram routes are marked on most maps of the city and will take you within a few blocks of the tourist sights if you're staying at a hotel that isn't within walking distance of them. The hotels have adequate maps, but the best maps I've seen are the Streetwise series of laminated fold-out maps of large cities purchased in this country. If it rains you won't see the map disintegrate or get ink on your hands.

Be prepared for crowds

Because the American dollar goes farther in the Czech Republic and Central Europe in general the city is overrun with tourists, so unless you don't mind fighting crowds try to go in the off season. You risk weather changes, but for me it was worth it. And take a Czech phrase book. You'll never pronounce the words correctly, but the Czechs love it!

Photos, from top to bottom

Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral dominate the skyline

Kinsky Palace and Tyne Church

Artists and musicians perform on the Charles Bridge

Lesser Town bridge gates with St. Nicholas Church in the background

Storm clouds threaten as artists and musicians perform on the Charles Bridge

Ministry of Local Development (yellow building on right)

Český Krumlov: A Czech Republic Treasure

2008-10-24T03:54:00.000-07:00

ČESKÝ KRUMLOV, Czech Republic

"You made it!" Jiří Vaclavíček, innkeeper extraordinaire, greeted me enthusiastically at the check-in desk of his small and immaculate hotel/apartment just off the square in Český Krumlov. (Pronounced CHES-key KROOM-loff)

Web site has valuable information & suggestions for visiting

I had called him in a panic the night before after I landed in Prague. For almost a year I had planned this visit and followed the suggestion on his excellent web site, which was to buy an advance bus ticket at the Student Agency bus booth at the airport, just outside of the baggage claim area. The trouble was, all the seats were sold out for the following day, the only day I had free before the start of a self-guided course in Prague. Jiří gave me the name of a private driver, Mike, but when I called he was already booked and my heart sank. But Mike was determined to help me and located another driver who was able to pick me up the following morning at 9:30 on the dot. My first encounter with the people of the Czech Republic turned out to be the pattern I ran into during my entire visit. The Czech people are thoughtful and kind and will do everything they can to help.

A beautifully preserved medieval town with narrow cobbled streets and lanes

Perhaps the thing that was most important for me--a person who has no sense of direction--was the fact that the town is nestled in a bend of the Vlatava River, the same river that dominates Prague, meaning it is virtually impossible to get lost exploring the interesting shops and architecture. You'll eventually see the river again or a familiar landmark, so you can just wander and appreciate what you see.

The town is dominated by a castle on a hill above, but in this country castles are different from the ones you might see in Great Britain, France or Germany. The architecture isn't as fanciful, so I concentrated on the village itself, which is a total delight. Although crowded with tourists it still has not lost its charm, and you don't see parking lots of tour buses--yet.

There's a great Tourist Information Center right on the square, and as soon as I checked in at the hotel, Castle View Apartments (the seven apartments have kitchens, so you can stay for extended visits and cook instead of eating out), I went directly to the Information Center to buy a return ticket on the following day's Student Agency bus. I also rented an audio walking tour, or as an alternative, you can hire Jiří, who doubles as a guide.

Rent a canoe and join the rest of the novice sailors!

I spent an amusing hour watching hapless canoeists as they navigated a small river waterfall beneath the castle. The river is shallow here, so if you use common sense it isn't dangerous. If you don't feel like paddling, do it on a supervised raft. It was a beautiful October day, but since I failed to see anyone who didn't get wet sooner or later--on canoes or in rafts--I'd advise wearing clothes that will dry quickly.

If you're a castle person make your reservation at the castle office when you arrive, for the interior is open only to guided tours and they are often booked solid. I skipped it on the advice of one guidebook which stated the tour is slow and the castle not much by European standards.

Puppets are big in the Czech Republic

I found the puppet shops in the Czech Republic fascinating. Puppets have been big in this country for centuries, and at one time they had traveling troupes. The ones in shops are strictly for souvenirs, for "real" puppets, the ones used in staged productions, can cost thousands. Still, it is fun to look at the varied characters and it's something children can enjoy too.

Pictures, top to bottom:

Castle View Apartments, center, end of lane under small sign

The Castle

People eating lunch at one of many riverside cafes

From a viewpoint above the town

Street scene

Street scene with castle in background

Washington State Wine Country: Growing Up

2008-09-13T16:03:00.000-07:00

WALLA WALLA, Washington

Four of us were sitting in a small, unpretentious storefront restaurant, Saffron, marveling over the spectacular food after a pleasant afternoon of wine tasting at various wineries. The day before we'd packed our cooler with French cheeses from the nearby Monteillet Fromagerie farm and enjoyed dining at the only 4 star restaurant in Eastern Washington, the Patit Creek, in "downtown" Dayton. It brought to mind a similar experience a few years back in Provence, where one expects such things, but this was Walla Walla, Washington. Wine Spectator has stated Washington State "ranks second only to California in total wine production in the United States"*.

Area adding wineries every year

The wine industry in Walla Walla is growing up and so is the selection of restaurants. Only four years ago there were 59 wineries; today there are more than 100, with close to 1,800 acres of vineyards and 10-20 wineries added each year. The region is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. White wines are less common but also available. Tasting rooms are scattered throughout the countryside; in modular buildings in the vincinity of the airport; and in attractive store fronts in downtown Walla Walla. The Walla Walla Wine Alliance publishes a helpful map that lists all the wineries and pinpoints the tasting rooms of your favorite.

Washington could be two different countries

If you've visited Seattle and not explored the less populated part of the state east of the Cascades you'll probably be surprised to learn that most of the state outside of the Puget Sound area is sunny with cold nights, a perfect climate for grape vines.

Washington state could be two separate countries and all parties would feel better about it. There's Seattle, a blue collar city trying to be cosmopolitan with its theater scene, a first class symphony, and up and coming restaurants, still a little surprised at its sudden growth from Boeing bombers to world class jets; at hometown REI, a small mountain equipment cooperative not too long ago to a national outdoors store; and at the sprouting up of giant newcomers like Starbucks and Microsoft. It rains a lot in Seattle, people wear Gore-Tex & fleece to work, but on a warm sunny day watching a ferry glide across Elliott Bay framed by the Olympic Mountains you'd swear you'd found Paradise.

Then there's the East Side of the Mountains, as Seattleites call it, as though it were an insignificant part of the state, when in truth, the land mass of the east side of the Cascade Range is about two thirds as large as the west side. Once over the mountain passes the ubiquitous, tall Douglas Fir trees and lush greenery of the west side changes to austere, drought-loving Ponderosa Pine, thinning to sand-colored, erosion-carved cliffs of the Columbia and Snake Rivers, and eventually to the rolling golden hills and winding roads of the Palouse, or wheat, country.

A half day's drive from SeaTac Airport

There are several ways to get to the wine country; the more popular one (and the shortest), crosses the mountains over Snoqualmie Pass on I 90, but two others are more scenic. One is State Route 2, north of I 90, over Stevens Pass on State Route 2, and the other, if you're really into scenic drives (and this is one of the most beautiful in the state), much farther north, over State Route 20. Both roads are accessible from I-5. The latter, over the North Cascades Highway, depending on your tolerance for driving long distances, would typically take more than one day, but if you have the time the beauty of it will be well worth the effort. It's over 400 miles of "must stop views" and changing vistas, some over winding mountain roads that are forced by snow to shut down every winter. An ideal plan would be to make a loop, going over Snoqualmie Pass on the way to Walla Walla and coming back on the northern route through the most beautiful part of the Cascades, with an overnight somewhere along the way.

After driving all of them in the past we usually opt for the "middle" route when we go, over Stevens Pass, but if you've arrived after hours of travel you may choose to stay in the Seattle area overnight and continue on in the morning, for Walla Walla, over Snoqualmie Pass, is 280 miles from Seattle.

We like to stay in Dayton the first night, rather than go into Walla Walla, since this longer route takes us northeast of Walla Walla, where we enjoy driving through what is known as the Palouse, mostly hilly, waving fields of grain that seem to add a calming quality to our drive. The best place to stay in Dayton is the Weinhard Hotel, a remodeled saloon and lodge hall built in 1889 by Jacob Weinhard, a beer brewer and now remodeled in Victorian decor, including four poster beds. The area was explored by the Lewis & Clark expedition on their return trip from the mouth of the Columbia, where they camped on Patit Creek, just east of the town. The small, 10 table Patit Creek restaurant, which is easy to miss with its unpretentious plain green siding, is named after this landmark. Reports of its excellent food were not exaggerated.

Walla Walla, clean & pleasant & full of fall wine tourists

Walla Walla's main street reflects careful restoration efforts and is remarkably clean and pleasant. Many buildings have been renovated and rehabilitated, including the Marcus Whitman Hotel where we stayed. We ate lunch there, too, and were pleased with the food, but the desk clerk, when pressed for something different, recommended the Saffron as the best restaurant for dinner. We made reservations and were glad we had, for by the time we left the place was jumping.

Wine tours can be booked or you can drive yourself

We prefer to plan our own tours and do our own driving, but there are guided tours, too. The Walla Walla Wine Alliance produces a brochure that lists all the area's wineries and pinpoints them on a fold out map. For a list of tour companies go to Tourism Walla Walla.

Since we were driving we were able to manage a case of wine in the car with no trouble, but if you plan to bring it aboard a plane be sure you first check out the airline's policy as well as printing out TSA's policy from the Web (see this site for advice on checking wine) in case airline employees are misinformed. There are hair raising stories of airlines refusing to allow passengers to check wine, as well as employees' misinterpretation of their own airline's policy and that of the TSA. If you can whip out a copy it should help.

*Wine Spectator magazine ran a cover story on Washington wines in their December 15, 2010 issue. Full access to their website requires paid membership.

Photos, top to bottom:
Two of our entrees at Saffron
The Palouse
Joan Monteillet, co-owner of Monteillet Cheese, helps customers decide
L'Ecole winery tasting room is an old school house

Rouen, France

2008-07-06T11:12:00.000-07:00

ROUEN, France

It's Wednesday afternoon and I'm sitting in a starkly modern, spacious church, among a handful of other tourists, gazing at the wall of 500 year old stained glass windows in back of the alter.

Stained glass windows removed before WWII
Remarkably, in 1939, with rumblings of war all over the Continent, these windows were removed from St. Vincent's, a 16th Century church that stood in the same spot, and placed in safe keeping. Five years later, during World War II, the old church was destroyed by bombs, and it wasn't until 1979 that the windows found a new home in this modern building. The architect wished to resume the tradition used in many old churches--of designing the building in the shape of an upturned boat, but to me the building seems out of place among the surviving old town structures surrounding it.

Joan of Arc died here
This new modern church is located near the same site, the place du Vieux Marché, where Joan of Arc was burned alive in 1431, and a towering cross and plaque marks the spot where she was executed. Old half-timbered buildings surround the square that used to contain several churches and a marketplace, all destroyed during the war. A smaller open air market was retained next to the church when the square was redeveloped, and I shopped there for fresh fruit.

The capital of Normandy memorialized in Monet paintings
Rouen is the capital of Normandy, and it is also the home of the beautiful Cathédral Notre Dame, made famous by Claude Monet in one of his best known works. The Cathedral has history dating from the 4th Century, having been destroyed, burned, pillaged, and finally nearly destroyed again during World War II. Its restoration is still under way, the structure a study in the development of various types of Gothic architecture. Inside are Renaissance tombs of cardinals and French royalty, but perhaps the most famous is of the heart of Richard the Lionhearted of England, which was given as a token of his affection for the people of Rouen.

See the Old Town from miniature train
Just outside the cathedral a miniature "train" with open air cars (on tires) can provide a 45 minute tour of the old part of the city. It zigzags through the narrow, cobbled streets as the driver narrates in French and bare bones English. Some of the fine old buildings survived the war (Rouen has about 2,000 old half-timbered houses) and it's a great way to sightsee when you have limited time, as I did. There are other guided tours available, too, as well as a good Information Center across the square from the cathedral.

See Monet paintings at Musée des Beaux-Arts
An absolute must-see in Rouen is a Monet original painting of the cathedral at the Musée des Beaux-Arts. After seeing reproductions of it I was surprised at how small the original was. The museum is considered one of the finest regional museums in France, with paintings from the 15th to the 20th Centuries, and all the major European art movements represented.

Rouen was also the home of writer Gustav Flaubert, and the Musée Flaubert et de l'Histoire de la Médicine is in the former hospital where Flaubert's father worked as a surgeon, a tiny museum in the apartment in which the Flauberts lived.

Be sure to stay in the medieval center of the city where just about everything is within easy walking distance. I stayed at the Hôtel du Vieux, a great location right at the square of that name, but the mattresses on the beds are like boards--not my idea of comfort. It's primarily a business person's hotel, three stars, which means just the basics with no original touches.

The Crêperie Tarte Tatin, a few blocks from the cathedral, has good crepes and salads, but is so popular there's usually a long wait, so try to go during off-hours.

Photos
Left: typical cobbled street in Rouen old city
Right: Cathédral Notre Dame, still being renovated
Bottom: place du Vieux Marché, part of the roof of church Sainte Jeanne d'Arc visible at far right

A Special B and B in Sooke, British Columbia

2008-06-16T11:09:00.000-07:00

SOOKE, B.C. (Vancouver Island)

British Columbia, and especially the west coast and Vancouver Island, are rare jewels of natural beauty, combining ocean views, mountains, green conifer forests, and clean air. The capital of British Columbia is Victoria, on Vancouver Island just off the mainland, but Vancouver the city, is on the mainland itself and is B.C.'s largest city. This can be confusing to those who haven't been there.

Vancouver the city feels international

We are fortunate enough to live on a small island about halfway between Seattle and the Canadian border, and every few years we revisit either Vancouver or Vancouver Island. They are quite different and offer contrasting atmospheres. The city of Vancouver has an international flavor, and is certainly the most "European" city on the west coast of the North American Continent. The differences are apparent even as we catch glimpses of it far ahead of us on the freeway when we drive there.

Vancouver Island feels English

Vancouver Island, on the other hand, has a distinctly English flavor, particularly Victoria, on the southeast tip of the island, with its Empress Hotel, Parliament Building, and area surrounding the harbor. On a first visit to Vancouver Island, Victoria is a must-see. If you have time, take a bus from downtown to Oak Bay and walk the residential area to get a real feel of England, or stay at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel, which has fabulous views and a private beach, as well as beautiful gardens. (It used to be an old half-timbered hotel with creaky floors, which I loved, but it's being rebuilt, now in pseudo-Tudor style, to be completed in 2010, so who knows if it's going to be an improvement.)

Sooke, Hartmann House near Victoria yet rural

Sooke is one of our favorite places on Vancouver Island because it's only about a half hour's ride from the ferry terminal and on the edge of beautiful wilderness areas and wild, unsullied beaches. The last time we were there we stayed at a little treasure of a Bed and Breakfast, Hartmann House. It's been voted 4th favorite B&B in Canada by the North American Inns Bed & Breakfast and Resorts Magazine, and is listed in both the Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest, and Northwest Best Places. Rambling and quaint, with weathered siding, the house is set in an English cottage garden that has been featured in a national magazine.

You have to pay careful attention to directions or go right by it as we did, but it's a gem of a place and well worth the price. (It used to be a bargain for Americans because of the exchange rate, but since the $ has lost so much ground it's a pretty even dollar for Canadian dollar.)

Although it's on the main road from Victoria, it sits well above the road and out of sight and sound of traffic. It's perfect for a honeymoon, especially if you book the Honeymoon Suite, which has a king bed, sofa, soaking tub and separate shower. It's very private, with its own entrance (as with the other B&B room) and tiny patio, with views out to woods and part of the garden. Ray Hartmann is a retired cabinet maker and a true artist of his craft. He has made everything in the house that's wood, including the beds. Ann, his wife, serves a delicious breakfast at the time you specify when you check in, and delivers it on a tea cart each morning inside a tiny butler's pantry adjoining your room. She knocks discreetly on the door to let you know it's there and you eat whenever you wish. If you ask she'll give advice on where to eat dinner and make reservations for you. The couple couldn't be nicer!

With the exception of Victoria, Vancouver Island is for outdoor types and you can find hiking trails, as well as scenic drives up the coast through nearly virgin forests.

Sooke Harbor House is a world renowned resort nearby, which we found to be over-rated. We stayed once and were disappointed in the room as well as the poor service in the restaurant. For the cost I feel it should have been better. Others have been known to rave about it.

Vancouver Island is accessed by ferry from Vancouver and Tswwassen on the Canadian mainland, or from Seattle, Anacortes and Port Angeles in the U.S. Check the transportation web site.

Photos top to bottom

Hartmann House

Private patio outside Honeymoon Suite

Honeymoon Suite

Sedona, Arizona

2008-03-27T16:19:00.000-07:00

SEDONA, AZ.
According to USA WEEKEND Sedona is the No. 1 Most Beautiful Place in America. Dare I take exception? Without a doubt Sedona is a beautiful place with stunning views, but the survey had me wondering how many places in America the participants had visited. I can think of many places equally beautiful, but such things are in the eye of the beholder.

Burgeoning population = Expensive!

Perhaps it is safe to say it was much more beautiful before late 20th Century development turned it into a commercial enterprise. The city increased its population from 2,700 in 1970 to 11,323 in 2007 and continues to grow. On top of that, four million people visit every year. That translates to an expensive place to visit. B&B rooms alone run from $138-$399. (See Sedona accomodations and Sedona Chamber of Commerce sites.) My advice is to stay somewhere outside Phoenix, 113 miles south on Interstate 17. If you're averse to crowds don't visit during the summer months. The best time is late winter or early spring. Not only will you run into hordes of out-of-towners in June, July and August, it's where Phoenix residents go for relief from the heat. With an altitude of 4,000 feet Sedona can be considerably cooler in the hottest months. They can also get snow during the winter.

It's the vortex, say New Agers.

Sedona was "re-discovered" in 1987 when New Agers converged there in the belief--true or otherwise--that the area is a major power point on earth for vortexes. A vortex, according to these authorities, is a "spiraling cone or funnel shape of awesome energy." Supposedly, if you go to a vortex you can use Nature's dynamic healing to help you heal or release emotional traumas. Clear?

Visit Visitor Center in Oakcreek for a variety of ideas.

I prefer to go places in the off-season. It was February and this was our third visit to Sedona. We stopped at the Village of Oakcreek Visitor Center five miles or so east of Sedona to pick up a map and the beautiful, photo enhanced "Experience Sedona" magazine, the official guide that lists things to do, from balloon rides to river rafting, to hiking. An enthusiastic woman behind the desk suggested some things we had not covered on previous visits: the breathtaking panoramic view from the airport mesa and the picturesque, winding drive north (there are some hairpin turns if you're inclined to get car sick!) on State Route 89A, through Oak Creek Canyon, following Oak Creek, which meanders below, and ending just a few miles south of Flagstaff. The drive takes about an hour, at an altitude of 5,000 ft., and there's a fine, well marked rest area, with plenty of parking and a viewpoint of the canyon just before the terrain changes to a straighter road through Ponderosa. From the red rock desert country of Sedona the vegetation changes slowly from Juniper and Piñon Pine to forests of Ponderosa, greatly resembling the high desert of southern Oregon.

Flagstaff named by pioneers honoring America's Centennial

Flagstaff, with its clear, crisp air and cool pine forests, nestles about 7,000 feet at the foot of the San Francisco Peaks and would have been settled earlier had it not been for its isolation. (The railroad arrived in 1880 and made it more accessible.) Instead, it was used as a byway for emigrants on their way to settle in California. The original town got its name as the result of a party honoring the first Centennial of the country. On July 4, 1876, they stripped the bark and branches from a pine and raised an American flag. When they moved on the "flag staff" became a landmark for those who followed.

Photos top to bottom:
Oak Creek Canyon from viewpoint on Rt. 89A
View of Sedona from airport mesa
Red Rock country

Beaune, The Wine Capital Of Burgundy

2008-03-26T15:46:00.000-07:00

BEAUNE, FRANCE
Never visit France during a rail strike--especially if you don't speak French--unless you're content to sit out the strike where you are. I didn't come to that obvious gem of wisdom until I got back to Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam after the fact and some frustrating detours.

Train not listed on departure board.
News of the rail strike didn't bother me when I arrived at Gare de Lyon in Paris on my way to Beaune to tour some of the world's most prestigious vineyards. An American I'd met told me he didn't think the strike was affecting routes south, but when I stood looking for my train on the big board inside the station and couldn't find it I had niggling stabs of doubt. Still, I convinced myself it was just too early to be posted and decided to wait until an hour before departure and if it still wasn't there I'd start to worry.

Do any officials speaks English?
At the appointed hour I started looking for an official who spoke English and learned my train had indeed been canceled and I'd have to take a different one, this one to Dijon, not Beaune, for which I'd have to queue up at the end of a long line, eating up more time, to buy a different ticket. It took half an hour to reach the window, but luckily most window agents speak English. Once there I asked how I could get to Beaune from Dijon and the agent suggested a taxi. I didn't know how far Dijon was from Beaune, but I began to see francs flashing before my eyes as they rapidly advanced on a taxi meter. (This was before France converted to Euros. Just about that time I couldn't help remembering the story of some poor soul from Japan who had landed in Los Angeles and told the taxi driver he wanted to go to the Grand Canyon.) By this time I had to run to catch my train, but because I had booked first class I was able to get a seat, for which I was grateful. I was still puffing my way down the aisle when the train pulled out.

French dictionary/phrase book essential!
At Dijon, as I waited in another queue, this time for a taxi, I silently practiced saying a phrase I had put together and written down from my French dictionary. "C'est combien pour aller a la Beaune?", which seemed to do the trick, for when the taxi driver stopped in front of me and I reeled off the phrase, he held up three fingers which acknowledged that, in light of my lousy French, which he nevertheless understood, his best shot in dealing with me was in sign language. I, in turn, correctly interpreted the three fingers as 300f (this was before France went to Euros--$43 at the time). I nodded and got in, and in an effort to be friendly he began pointed out different vineyards along the way, all in deliberate, plodding French, assuming, I suppose, that if he spoke slowly enough I would understand. Rather than trying to put together "I can't understand a word you're saying, regardless of how slowly you speak" I just grunted every time he pointed.

Old Town convenient, near all the sights.
Beaune is a beautiful, neat town with fine old buildings and I was happy I'd booked a hotel in the old part, which made it easy to explore on foot. It is well worth exploring. The biggest tourist attraction, aside from the wine cellars, is the Hôtel-Dieu hospital, built for the destitute by wealthy patrons in 1443, and now an immaculately maintained museum including a magnificent Gothic chapel. The hospital owns valuable vineyards and hosts the world's most famous wine auction on the third Sunday of November each year. Not surprisingly there are tasting cellars all over town.

Vineyard tours offered.
I had signed up for a tour of the vineyards, which was fascinating, particularly since there were only four of us in the van and we all spoke English. The guide was kept busy with our questions. Wine has been grown in this region since the Romans planted vines in the 12th Century. I hadn't know the French government has strict control over all the French vineyards, and vinters must plant only vines he has been authorized to grow. If he wishes to buy more land the government must approve.

Only 4 types of grapes grown here.
There are only 4 different kinds of grapes grown in the region and those 4 go into the wines made there: Pinot Noir and Gamay of the reds and Chardonnay and Aligoté of whites. We learned such salient facts as:

The soil gives the character of the wine
The best wine comes from grapes grown on a slope
No irrigation is allowed
The Pinot Noir grape likes to "suffer" (i.e., poor soil and little moisture)
Vines are trimmed 10 times a year
A grower picks 2 different branches from a vine each year on which to grow grapes

Perfect for bicycle tour.
The Côte-D'or seemed a perfect place for a bicycle tour. One could go from village to charming village, eating and drinking one's way through the sunny days, overnighting at a B&B wherever you might land--a carefree existence. There are guided bicycle tours too.

Getting back to Paris!
Between lessons and tours and wine tasting I would trek to the railroad station and push my note in bad French (which was getting tattered looking) under the grill asking for news of the strike. The ticket agent recognized me after a few days and would shake his head when he saw me set foot inside the station, for I was always the only person to visit. I ended up taking a taxi back to Dijon where I connected with a train back to Paris.

I think it may have been then that I began to think it might be wise to turn worries about rail strikes and language barriers over to a group leader.

Photos top to bottom:
Beaune city center with carousel
Hôtel-Dieu, originally a hospital for the poor
Beaune wine estate

Portmeirion: Waking Up In Oz After A Night In Kansas

2008-03-25T13:31:00.000-07:00

PORTMEIRION, WALES
English architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis fell in love with Portofino, Italy, and set out to re-create the atmosphere of an Italian seaside village on a craggy Welsh hillside overlooking a wide, shallow bay at the base of the Llyn Peninsula. We rented a "cottage" here and our stay was a bit like living on a movie set.

Wales is not exactly Italy.

I would guess that, apart from Antarctica, Wales is the farthest one could get from a colorful Italian playground in the sun, and our 50 mile drive from the ferry terminal at Holyhead to Portmeirion was a bit like waking up in the Land of Oz after spending a night in Kansas.

Wales is generally thought of as a somber place consisting of harsh weather and great, gray castles, for it is home to some of the finest medieval castles in Europe. And then, there are the Welsh stories; tales of King Arthur and Merlin, the magician, of druids, dragons, chivalrous deeds and kingdoms lost beneath the sea. Which makes Portmeirion all the harder to reckon with.

Planning & building took 25 years; is famous for "The Prisoner".
Combining property he had inherited with some he bought, Williams-Ellis completed his village in two stages. From 1925 to 1939 he plotted the village and erected its most distinctive buildings. From 1954 to 1975 he filled in the details. Portmeirion's primary claim to fame is as the setting for the 1960s cult TV series, "The Prisoner," starring Patrick McGoohan. McGoohan played a retired special agent who knew too much and was whisked off to "The Village" to keep him isolated. One of the village shops is still devoted to "Prisoner" memorabilia, and a "Prisoner" convention is held here annually.

Microclimate supports tropical gardens; daytrippers swarm in.
Playing into Williams-Ellis's hands and helping him achieve the atmosphere he wanted was an unusual microclimate of the property in which Mediterranean plants and trees thrive, and the whole village consists of a profusion of well cared for flowering gardens. Teeming sightseers arrive by the busload during the day, their voices echoing off the surrounding hillsides in a steady bee-like drone, but at night, deserted except for paying guests, the village is transformed into a fairyland of lights that play on the colors and shadows.

Use Portmeiron as a base to explore castles.
We used Portmeirion as a base for exploring many of the castles but weren't prepared for the hordes of people using the nearest town, Porthmadog, as a gateway to beautiful Snowdonia National Park. There were wall-to-wall traffic jams all day long. The park is well known for its hiking trails.

Visit slate quarry via narrow gauge steam train.
One of the unusual attractions at Porthmadog is the Ffestinlog Railway, a narrow-gauge steam-powered train--the oldest independent railway company in the world--that winds 13 miles through the beautiful scenery of the National Park to the slate quarry town of Blaenau Ffestinlog. We took it one day and toured the quarry. (If you're into narrow gauge railroads, check out others: Welshpool & Llanfair Railway, the Talyllyn, and The Welsh Highland Railway.)

Unique place to stay, though expensive & a bit frumpy.
Portmeriron is a unique, but expensive, place to stay. I would have paid it willingly, however, if the accommodations had been updated accordingly. As it was, I felt it was a bit like visiting my old Aunt Abigail who was still living rather shabbily in the 1920s era, and I left feeling slightly cheated. I would recommend asking detailed questions if you book.

By all means, if you can afford it, eat at The Hotel, a converted 1850 mansion on the waterfront, once described as "one of the most picturesque of all the summer residences to be found on the sea-coast of Wales." The description is not an exaggeration. It's a throw-back to fine, old restaurants, where the staff is trained to treat you as honored guests. Rooms are available for those who wish to stay less than a week.

The Less Traveled Northern Scottish Highlands

2008-03-24T08:10:00.000-07:00

ALTNAHARRA, Sutherland, Scotland

Driving alone on a one-lane road 30 miles north of Lairg in the Scottish Highlands I was relieved it was a bright warm and sunny day. At night or in a typical howling Highlands storm I would have been terrified, for the only living creatures or evidence of life I'd seen for miles were the occasional gaggle of free range sheep, and I realized this was the only place I'd ever been where I felt as though I could be the last person on earth.

Area is rich with Prehistoric relics: brochs & cairns.
I was on a quest to find ancient relics, and my destination was the ruins of Dun Dornadilla, a Bronze Age "broch" about 12 miles from the northern coast. The day before I had trekked up Ord Hill at an historical center outside Lairg, to view a huge pile of rocks that formed a 5,000 year old cairn thought to have been used to bury the dead. I had become intrigued with these Prehistoric ruins after reading about them in guidebooks and seeing a BBC film. They are the only evidence of human habitation during the Bronze Age.

Craggy mountains, bogs and trickling streams.
Some miles back I had caught sight of a lone farmhouse lower in the valley and passed a mail carrier as he was picking up two backpackers. In Great Britain it is acceptable and common in rural areas to snag rides from mail trucks. Craggy mountains rose in the distance, but the valley I was driving through

was boggy and dotted here and there with clear streams trickling through paths of rust colored stones.

A place for solitude & contemplation.
Finally, as I negotiated a bend, the broch came into view. It was right beside the road overlooking the deeper, picturesque Strathmore River Valley. Ben Hope, one of the country's highest mountains at 3,000 feet, loomed blue near the coast to the north. A plaque had been erected that described its possible purpose as a defense structure during intertribal battles. As I finished reading it and contemplated the scene, its past, and the total solitude this place offered, the entire tableau somehow reminded me of being inside a church. I stood there for a long time and drank in the silence. A cloud obscured the sun temporarily and the sudden shifting light reminded me I should turn back so I would reach our little rented cottage before dusk.

Cottage a remodeled gatehouse on old hunting estate.
The cottage was about 12 miles south of Lairg outside the little village of Ardgay (pronounced Ard GUY). It was a remodeled gatehouse on the edge of an estate of what used to be the hunting lodge of a title Englishman. It was rustic, but comfortable, and the bathroom upstairs between the two bedrooms had a generous soaking tub, which was fine if you like baths as the English do. The only shower was in a chilly utililty area on the back porch, but we found this to be only a minor inconvenience. After all, the Highlands requires resilience to the elements!

Few supermarkets & restaurants.
We had taken the train from London to Inverness, where we rented a car, stopping first, as directed by our host, at a modern Safeway to stock up on a week's supply of groceries. The only sizable grocery stores were in Lairg or Dornoch, some distance from where we were staying, so it wasn't likely we could just duck out to the market for some forgotten dinner item. The only recommended restaurants were two hunting lodges, each about twenty minutes away. If you enjoy beauty along with solitude this is the place to come--a perfect retreat for a writer. Contact Strathkyle Lodge.

"Downtown" Ardgay had a small grocery store that we patronized a few times, and once, as I parallel parked across the street from it the car in front of me backed up into my bumper. After a few seconds of apparent realization that he had encountered an immovable object, an elderly man stepped out of the car wearing kilts (honest!) and said, rather laconically, I thought, "Ach, I d'na see ya." "So I gathered," I retorted, and giving the bumper a once-over, added, "Well, it looks like no harm was done," to which he climbed back in his car and drove away without another word.

Photos top to bottom:
Downtown Ardgay
Cairn atop Ord Hill, Lairg
The Gatehouse, our Highlands cottage at Ardgay
Remains of Dun Dornadilla, Bronze Age structure; free range sheep in background

For further details see copy of published article:

http://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B9mfUEtTrYMiYmU5MGE5NGUtMWE0MC00NjVmLTg3MjEtZGFmMzYyZDYzNmQ1&hl=en

The Sad Legacy Of The Scottish Highlands

2008-02-23T09:17:00.000-08:00

SUTHERLAND, Scotland

Scottish Highlanders are people who have been variously described as dour, unfriendly, serious, humorless and even surly, and Highlanders themselves might admit they tend to carry grudges. (Full disclosure: I'm married to one, albeit several generations removed.) When it comes to the English or the Lowlanders (southern Scots), the grudges have been nursed for hundreds of years and border on hatred. The last cruely suffered by the Highlanders had to do with the Highland Land Clearances, which took place in the late 18th Century and into the 19th Century.

Landowners evicted tenant farmers by the tens of thousands.
Wealthy English and Lowland land owners decided the land could better serve them financially by clearing it to raise sheep and went about evicting all the tenant farmers from their land. Tens of thousands of people were forced to leave, sometimes on very short notice. Violence ensued as homes were ransacked and burned, people beaten and even killed.

Metaphor for power: Duke of Sutherland's Dunrobin Castle.
Vivid reminders of the Land Clearances remain today as one drives through the countryside. Empty shells of stone farmhouses are scattered throughout the landscape, and perhaps there is no better metaphor for the power wielded by the landed gentry than Dunrobin Castle, the homeof the Duke of Sutherland, one of the most loathed men of that period and responsible for much of the suffering. The Sutherlands at one time were among the largest landowners in Western Europe. Dunrobin , a replica of a French chateau, looking out over the North Sea, is the largest house in the northern Highlands and one of Britain's oldest continuously inhabited homes. Part of the castle is open to the public and interesting to tour.

The Highlands are starkly beautiful, a paradise of untouched scenic mountains, lochs, seascapes, forests, moors, valleys, preserved history and bountiful wildlife. Yet it remains sparsely populated, for once having been forced off their land, few people ever returned. Most emigrated to coastal areas or even to Australia, Nova Scotia and the Southeastern United States. A sad legacy for so beautiful an area.

Photos top to bottom:
Deserted farmhouses
Dunrobin Castle

A Nice Hotel In A Tiny Yorkshire Village

2008-02-22T09:41:00.000-08:00

REETH, Yorkshire

I found the Burgoyne Hotel by accident. My first choice--in another part of Yorkshire--was fully booked, so I came across the Burgoyne and decided to take a chance. We were delighted since we like to stay in small and unique places. The Burgoyne was originally the home of a prominent local family in this village of 200, and it still feels homey. The public rooms are tastefully furnished and clean, and our bedroom, the Marrick, as close to perfect as it could be, with a four poster king size bed and a huge, carpeted bathroom that doubled as a dressing room. It's the nicest room in the house and overlooks the pleasant village green, which is particularly interesting on market day.

Olga irons at her desk.

The Burgoyne is meticulously cared for by the owner, Derek Hickson, who welcomes you, answers questions, waits tables and supervises a pleasant, agreeable staff. Olga minds the reception office off the front hall, and in her spare time irons the dining room's linen napkins with a small, portable "mangle" (iron) on her desk. Where else but Yorkshire would you find someone ironing at the reception desk?

A lazy river, winding roads, drystone walls and high moors views.

I'm constantly on the lookout for places that haven't been ruined by tourism, and this part of Yorkshire is nearly perfect when it comes to being unspoiled. The countryside is beautiful, varying between winding roads shaded by tall trees, the lazy Swaledale River meandering through a valley surrounded by green hills and high, treeless and windy moors with breathtaking views. In the valleys sheep graze between checkered drystone fences that climb up the valley walls.

Bolton Castle imprisoned Mary, Queen of Scots

Having just seen a version of Elizabeth I on Masterpiece Theatre, the nearby Bolton Castle was interesting to tour, as Elizabeth had Mary, Queen of Scots imprisoned there for six months in 1568. A recorded narration of the history of the castle is played on a loudspeaker in a loop.

Visit Wensleydale cheese factory via Buttertubs Pass.

The famous Wensleydale cheese (sold in the States) is made in Hawes, about an hour away by car, and their cheese shop is very popular. On the way back I picked a different route over the moors, via Buttertubs Pass, since it was highly recommended as a scenic route. Some of the locals had warned me the road dropped off precipitously on one side, but I found it pretty tame next to Pike's Peak or Big Sur. The name is derived from the shape of the eroded rocks that form the canyon below. The views at the top in some spots are almost 360 degrees.

Market Day on the village green.

Friday is market day in Reeth and we woke up to vendors setting up their booths on the green. It's always fun to see how market days differ in various parts of Britain, so we visited, but didn't buy.

Scenes from "All Creatures Great and Small".

These are some of the old stomping grounds of James Harriot, author of the much loved books written about his experiences as a vet in Yorkshire. The TV series featured many scenes from this area. If you're interested in this part of Yorkshire check your local library for a copy of "James Harriot's Yorkshire", written by him, with beautiful photographs throughout by Derry Brabbs. It is a wonderful guided tour through the countryside. I really value the copy I own and refer to it every so often when I want to be reminded of this terrific trip.

The natives are friendly!

The locals are genuinely pleasant and helpful, and if you ask them a question they answer as if you've done them a favor by asking. If you're looking for action or night life this isn't the place to go, unless you're interesting in pub hopping the two pubs in town. If you're looking for a peaceful, unhurried atmosphere, unspoiled and picturesque landscapes and a comfortable place to settle, the Burgoyne in Reeth will please you. The food is good, but less expensive fare can be found at a charming 18th Century inn about 10 miles north in Arkengarthdale, The Charles Bathurst Inn (advance reservations recommended) or the local pubs. Good lunches at Overton House Café, across from the Burgoyne.

At the Burgoyne, where breakfast is included, have the Eggs Benedict for breakfast. (The Baby Benny is one egg.)

Photos top to bottom
Reeth Village green
Countryside surrounding Reeth
Olga, the receptionist
Our bedroom, the Marrick, at the Burgoyne Hotel

The Burren In Ireland

2008-02-21T13:06:00.000-08:00

CATHERCONNELL, County Clare, Ireland.
Have you ever arranged a trip somewhere, planned to hit a few minor attractions along the way, then ended up fascinated with the minor attraction but not enough time to explore it? The Burren was like that for me. The Burren is what I'd expect the surface of the moon to look like if you added undergrowth. Mile after mile of formations cover the earth, parts of it flat like pavement, parts horizontal slabs with picturesque fissures, as if a giant mountain had poured molton lava that had hardened, but the Burren formations consist of limestone.

The area extends over about 139 square miles in County Clare, north of Shannon Airport, and I'd planned an overnight at a B&B about an hour from the airport. We would drive through the Burren on the way to the B&B, then the next morning drive on to Clifden on the Atlantic coast, further north in County Galway, where we were spending a week.

Many prehistoric relics.
The landscape of the area intrigued us enough so that we retraced out route on the way back, visiting the Burren Center, where exhibits and a film (which the staff pronounced fil-em) detail the archeology, geology, legends and history of the area. Then we hit the backroads and sought out the 1500 year old Catherconnell Stone Fort and the Poulnabrone portal tomb, dating between 3800 and 3200 B.C. We were expecting a typical tourist area, with parking. Instead, we spotted the dolman in a sort of rock field, had to pull off to the side of the road for lack of any parking area, and walked to it through a field that resembled a rock-strewn beach at low tide. It's size was a bit disappointing to me, for I'd seen a similar one in Wales that was twice as large.

Area one of the most intact archeological landscapes of Europe.
The Burren is one of the most intact archeological landscapes of Europe and was attractive country to prehistoric people. It is a world made of stone: man made stone walls and enclosures, ruined stone houses of all types and ages, churches, castles and monuments that record a continuous history.

Photos top to bottom
One of the many stone house ruins scattered through the landscape in The Burren
Poulnabrone dolman

A Country House In Cornwall

2008-02-20T08:18:00.000-08:00

ST. AGNES, CORNWALL, England

Ever wondered what it would be like to stay in what the British call a country house? Well, it's generally a large house or mansion set amidst ample acreage, and many of them have been converted to private hotels. Taxes in England are so confiscatory that many landowners simply couldn't afford to keep their country houses, many of which had been passed on from generation to generation for centuries. As a result, many were sold to individuals who then turned them into hotels and B&Bs.

It's an adventure to stay in these country houses, for they're much more intimate than ordinary hotels--which tend to be impersonal--and aren't run according to hotel formulas. You get an opportunity to meet other guests as well as the owners in these houses, and in my opinion it's a much more pleasant and relaxing atmosphere.

Rose and Vale Country House Hotel

One of the country houses I've liked is the Rose and Vale Country House Hotel, a Georgian mansion in the little village of Mithian, near St. Agnes, on the north coast of Cornwall. The house was originally the winter residence of the owner of a large copper mine, but was built around 1770 by someone else. Mithian is said to be the second oldest village in Cornwall, that narrow, southern peninsula of land that, on a map of Great Britain, juts out to the west at the bottom of the country.

At its widest point, near Devon, Cornwall is only 50 miles wide and has the mildest climate in England. It is bordered on the north coast by the treacherous Atlantic, known for spectacular ship wrecks, and the south coast by the English Channel. It's a great place to visit in the off-season, for there are popular beaches that are heavily used during the summer months.

Cornwall popular in literary fiction; known for smuggling

Many parts of England have been scenes for literary fiction, and Cornwall may be remembered best from Daphne DuMaurier's novel "Rebecca". There were scenes of the treacherous northern coast in the movie version. The Bodmin Moor is nearby, which figured into "Jamaica Inn", another of DuMaurier's novels. Winston Graham's "Poldark" stories are set in this part of Cornwall; John Le Carre lives near Penzance, at the southern tip of Cornwall, and other authors associated with the area include Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Agatha Christie, Jane Austen and Rosamunde Pilcher. Local Tourist Offices carry a booklet entitled "Cornwall & Devon: Literary Inspiration," which includes maps, museums and sites to visit if you're interested in the literary history of the area.

The south coast, with its easy access to the Continent, was for centuries a haven for smugglers. As taxes were raised on a range of luxury items in order to finance European and colonial wars the smugglers thrived, and smuggling became an accepted and respected enterprise. Many of the tiny coastal villages became beehives of smuggling activities.

Tin mining important in history of area

Tin was mined from deep rock mines a half mile underground, and relics of old wheal chimneys dot the countryside. The "Poldark" novel and Masterpiece Theater series were set in this area. A nearby museum in St. Agnes, converted from an old church, has interesting exhibits detailing the mining and shipping operations.

Winding country lanes; easy to get lost

The area, with its curving, one-lane roads and sometimes hard-to-see signposts is an easy place to get lost, and we spent hours doing just that. The narrow country lanes always served up surprises, not the least of which were regular realizations that, in setting out to explore, we frequently ended up where we originally started.

We were happy the price of dinners was included in our room rate, for we weren't anxious to try and find restaurants in the darkness and finding our way back again.

Area charming & informal

St. Agnes is the kind of place where the local bookstore owner had only to call the author of a local history book I wanted when she found the book was out of stock. The author appeared soon with a fresh stack of books and was delighted the discuss the area with me, autographing my book.

The local post office in Mithian is in one of the village homes, and the postmistress hangs the post office sign in her front yard each morning and stores it on her front porch during hours it's closed.

Houses here, as in many areas of England, have names instead of numbers: Tuckaway Thatch, The Olde Forge, Potters Cottage, Clouds End, Magor's Mill, Bal Goshen and Pickety Witch.

Rose and Vale Country House lives in earlier era

The hotel seems to live in an earlier era, circa 1930, but it's a welcome change to get away from the ordinary, however luxurious a four or five star hotel may be. It is as comfortable as an old shoe. Breakfast at a country house hotel is usually included in the room rate, and if dinners are regularly served they can be included also. Some do not serve dinners.

Photos

Rose-in-Vale Country House

Cornwall Coast nearby

Lighthouse B&Bs On The Upper Peninsula of Michigan

2008-02-19T09:25:00.000-08:00

BIG BAY & AHMEEK, Michigan

The Upper Peninsula of Michigan remains a place for rugged individualists. If you want to get away from the big city and madding crowds, that's the place to go. If you want to live near the sea but don't want either coast the nearest thing to an ocean is Lake Superior, the largest freshwater lake in the world by area, holding 10% of the world's fresh water. Its surface is 31,820 square miles, the maximum depth is 1,279 feet, and the average temperature 40 degrees F.

Severe winters devour ships

Summer and fall calms on Lake Superior and the other Great Lakes belie the severe northern winters that move in early in the fall and are legendary for their viciousness. Lake Superior, in particular, can transform itself into a raging, grey roaring monster that devours ships like so many pieces of flotsam. In 400 years 6,000 ships have been sunk in the Great Lakes, and as the toll mounted the lighthouses multiplied in the late 19th Century and early 20th.

Original immigrants worked the mines

Many of the first rugged individualists were late 19th Century immigrants who came to work the copper and iron mines; the majority of them Scandinavians, Finns, Germans, Scots, Irish and Cornish, and later Italians and Eastern Europeans. The ore was transferred to ships that sometimes found themselves navigating treacherous weather. The area has jagged, rocky coastlines, sand bars and islands that are navigation hazards. The first lighthouses, Whitefish Point and Copper Harbor, were located at opposite ends of the peninsula.

Michigan leads states in number of lighthouses

Michigan has more lighthouses than any other state, and the Upper Peninsula itself has about 45, counting range lights. We wanted to see as many as possible and stay at the only two UP B&Bs. From northern Michigan we crossed to the Upper Peninsula by way of the Mackinac Bridge, a graceful suspension bridge that is the longest suspension bridge in the western hemisphere--950 feet longer than the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

Whitefish Point lighthouse now museum

Our first stop was the Whitefish Point lighthouse that has been transformed into an unusual museum featuring the famous 1975 sinking of the Edmund Fitzgerald, the largest ore boat on the Great Lakes. The singer Gordon Lightfoot wrote a popular song about it. The lighthouse is the oldest active light on Lake Superior. From Whitefish point we headed directly to Marquette, the UP's largest metropolitan area, a picturesque and restored port city, population about 20,500, overlooking its harbor. We stayed overnight at the elegantly remodeled Landmark Inn.

Big Bay famous for Otto Preminger film

Big Bay was our first lighthouse stay. It was a duplex, built in 1896, and subsequently turned into a 14 room single dwelling with 7 bedrooms to accommodate bed and breakfast guests. The owners present an historical overview at 5:00 p.m., and at that time answer questions. Afterward, you are free to wander through the public rooms, climb up to the light tower and look through the scrapbook that contains old lighthouse log excerpts and details of the lighthouse construction. A path outside leads along a bluff overlooking the lake.

Sand Hills lighthouse last to be built on lake

From Big Bay we headed to the Keweenaw Peninsula and some spectacular views of the rocky shoreline from Brockway Mountain Drive off Route 26, the highest highway between the Rocky Mountains and the Alleghenies. The little town of Ahmeek and the Sand Hills lighthouse B&B were nearby. Sand Hills, built in 1917, was the last lighthouse built on Lake Superior and also the largest.

Our room there overlooked a calm and deep blue Lake Superior, the three windows open to the unseasonably warm and sometimes stuffy September evenings. We could almost see the sun rising from the trees on our right and setting amid the trees on our left. From the lighthouse light tower one can see both. We fell asleep nights and awoke mornings to the sound of the gentle, rhythmic, rolling swish of water breaking on the red rocky shoreline, and it was difficult to adjust to the absence of tides.

Hostess serves up a five star breakfast

Mary Frabotta's breakfast is arguably the best breakfast in the whole state of Michigan, and she prides herself on making everything from scratch. Mary and her husband, Bill, bought the derelict lighthouse in 1961 and began a four year restoration program while they lived in the fog signal station, a small cottage on the property. Their story about the restoration is quite amazing.

Of the two B&Bs Sand Hills is the most comfortable. The Frabottas have lovingly restored all the rooms in Victorian furnishings and have a canopied king size bed in one bedroom, the one we stayed in, which was a shrine to Sir Lawrence Olivier, whom they knew.

A word of warning, however: Mary, although well meaning, tends to be a tad overbearing, expecting her guests to attend her evening and morning piano concerts. Evening concerts are held at 9 p.m., accompanied by dessert, and breakfast is served at 9:30 a.m., accompanied by another concert. Most B&B guests prefer to eat earlier, we've found, and since we needed to be on the road much earlier we firmly requested something earlier, to which she grudgingly agreed, with coffee and croissants. Play along or be firm, but kind!

If you're interested in lighthouses the Upper Peninsula is a great place to find them. Many are open for tours.

Photos top to bottom:

Big Bay lighthouse

Shoreline at Keweenaw Peninsula

Sand Hills lighthouse

michigan travel>Technorati link

At Home In London: Rent An Apartment

2008-01-30T16:10:00.000-08:00

KENSINGTON, London

London, for us, has frequently been a stopover or a place to hit the tourist spots. For a change we decided to find an apartment (or flat, as the British say) in a convenient area and stay a week. For the first time we eschewed the beaten path--for the most part, anyway, for who can resist the British Museum or the V&A, no matter how often you've been?

A tree shaded street in Kensington

Our apartment was located in a tree shaded Kensington residential area on the ground floor of a private home--what the natives call a garden flat. The owners lived in the upper three floors and, we discovered, own scores of other rental units in London, Paris and other European cities, which they have acquired and remodeled quite attractively.

Convenient to the Underground, Markets, Restaurants

Four blocks from the Gloucester Street Underground station, it was convenient to shops, grocery stores, and restaurants. We bought Oyster Cards good for one week's unlimited transportation on the "tube", bus, and some boats (£23.20 each, or about $48), of which we made good use, zipping around London nearly all day every day, sometimes together, sometimes separately, exploring neighborhoods and getting to know London as a new resident might try to do. Sometimes it felt more like Paris when I slipped out early in the morning to buy a baguette for lunch and croissants for breakfast at the French bakery around the corner. We scouted out our neighborhood, walked the High Street in Kensington, marveling at the impressive Whole Foods Market that hadn't been there the last time, window shopped all the upscale shops, bought half price theatre tickets at Leicester Square, and had time to explore areas we'd never had time to explore.

Hampstead fun to explore

Hampstead particularly interested me, as it was the setting for several books I'd read. It used to be a separate village but is now part of London proper, known for its wealthy inhabitants, many of whom are celebrities of one sort or another. (Their MP--Member of Parliment--is a film star.) We took the bus, sat in the upper deck and recognized street names and neighborhoods from several of my books.

It was a beautiful, sunny fall day and we had lunch at an outdoor table of a French restaurant, striking up a conversation with two women sitting next to us who worked together in the film industry. Providing a little extra drama were the swarms of police questioning employees of nearby businesses about an armored car heist that had occurred just 30 minutes before we arrived. The tube was quicker on the way back and we had time to hit the book stores on Charing Cross Road, including Murder One, a shop that handles only mysteries. The neighborhood is known for its book stores.

London has scores of obscure museums

Besides the obvious ones, London is packed with obscure museums, and I found Pollock's Toy Museum, just behind the Goodge Street tube station and next to the Hope Pub, an intriguing little place. It wasn't the toys that intrigued me as much as the building itself, parts of which date back to the 18th C. when it was used as a residence. The few rooms seem miniaturized, the creaky staircase leading to the second floor (first floor in England) so narrow one had to hug the wall to let someone pass going down. This is a museum for adults; too dark and gloomy for small children.

Saturday River Walk

On Saturday I headed over to the Thames and the Saturday River Walk near the London Eye, where vendors set up individual booths, while my husband opted for the British Museum. (Major London museums are free.) The River Walk is very much like the Left Bank in Paris and is worth the trip merely to people watch or see the views across the river, such as Parliament and Big Ben. I bought a print circa 1920 featuring a particular London street corner, and after looking at it propped against the mantle of the fireplace in our flat, decided I had to find it to see how it had changed. The next day I took the tube to find Amen Corner, which was not an easy feat. I asked half a dozen people, and finding it was like a treasure hunt, but I was glad I'd gone. The corner itself was nothing like the print, of course. It was surrounded by huge buildings and the years had taken away its charm.

On Renting: Owners or Agencies?

It's a dilemma trying to decide who you want to deal with, owners or agencies. I've always done quite a bit of research to check out reputations of both types & usually come out deciding to deal directly with owners. Read descriptions very carefully & ask a lot of questions, especially if it's important that you're in the center of action or out in the boonies. How close are restaurants & pubs, how many blocks or miles to the nearest tube stop or train station, supermarkets, bakeries, tourist centers, etc., how recently has a house/apt./room been updated? All these end up being important if you're staying longer than a few days.

You can hedge your bets by dealing with an agency, however, because if you're unhappy with the rental after you arrive, the ethical agencies will do their best to find you other choices.

It used to be that I trusted the recommendations of sites like Trip Advisor, etc., but I've heard that many places now have been forced to solicit 5 star ratings for money to keep "even" with unscrupulous practices of rivals, so I'd be careful about what advice you do take & don't believe everything you read.

England, and London in particular, has the most complete and helpful tourist information of any country or city I've visited. Be sure to contact the British Tourist Authority before going.

Photos top to bottom

Our apartment in Kensington

Saturday River Walk

A Street in Hampstead

Pollock's Toy Museum

Croatia: The Spectacular Dalmatian Coast

2008-01-28T04:37:00.000-08:00

CAVTAT, Croatia

Don't try to pronounce this town's name to a local if you're American. Quite simply, we can't get our tongues around it. The closest I came was "Shavtat", but that's not accurate, either.

Dalmatian Coast: 1,100 miles of beauty

Croatia's borders defy logic, but the most beautiful part of the country is the 1,100 mile long, narrow finger of mountainous, craggy-shored land that runs down the Adriatic Coast and includes numerous offshore islands. The Dalmatian Coast, as it is known, offers a Mediterranean climate--it's directly across the Adriatic from the eastern shore of Italy--as well as clear, blue water, innumerable coves and inlets, beaches, palm trees, and the jewel of the country, the ancient walled city of Dubrovnik.

A spring visit = no crowds

I was there in April, avoiding the summer crush of Eastern European vacationers, and when I go again (because this is one place to which I will return!) I think it will be either April or May. In the nearly two weeks spent there it only rained two or three times, and then usually cleared up by the end of the day. I even arrived home with sunburned ankles, the result of lounging in a deck chair on the hotel's massive patio area around their pools. Too cool for a bathing suit, I'd kept on my street clothes, only to discover later the sun had striped my ankles below the bottom of my pant legs.

Croatia finally independent after 1992 war

Throughout it's history Croatia has been occupied by foreign empires, all of which influenced the country's art and architecture, from Roman, to Venetian, to Austro-Hungarian. The country has always considered itself more a part of Western Europe than the troubled Balkans, and they finally achieved independence after a grueling war begun in the early 1990s.

I had signed up with a Canadian group, spending the major part of one whole day just getting to Toronto from Seattle to hook up with the rest of the group. It turned out to be a much larger group than I'd anticipated, which, in my estimation, is never conducive to peaceful travel, so as much as possible I struck out on my own during our time in Cavtat, only traveling with the group on scheduled side trips.

Hotel example of Communist construction

It was the first time I'd been in a previously Communist dominated country, and the Albatros Hotel was a perfect example of Communist hotels if what I've heard about Russia is true. It was a behemoth of a place, and at that time of year only one wing (of two) was open. The four stars it sported as a ranking had most likely been earned because of its massive marble lobby and public rooms that flowed together in an open plan, and the outdoor pools. The rooms couldn't be rated above a three (star); they were small, sparsely furnished, and minimally decorated, with beds like ironing boards, but nevertheless adequate. Making up for its lack of charm, however, was the view. It was situated practically on the shore of the Adriatic and every room looked out on it, even if you had to use the balcony and lean over the rail to see it. The massive, paved patio area in back, facing the sea, testified to the crowds it accommodated in summer and surrounded two large pools: one for swimming and another for wading.

Drive from Split is scenic

From Split, where we landed, we'd taken a bus down the coastline to Cavtat, which was a four hour trip, but during our daylight hours we saw much on the way: war damage and rebuilding, houses and hotels crowded together on the sides of cliffs that ran down to the sea, and breathtaking views from the occasionally winding road that ran along the top of the cliffs. We arrived in Cavtat after dark and as we passed Dubrovnik far below us, we were able to see the city outlined by its lights against the solid black sea. Cavtat was only another 12 miles.

Cavtat a charming village

Cavtat is a small village situated on its own peninsula between two harbors. Modest pleasure boats bob, tethered to mooring bouys. For me the village resembled a kind of mini-Riviera town, without the Beautiful People. Since the village has no beaches and the beach in front of the Albatros is composed of large stones, there are no long stretches of tanned and oiled bodies to spoil the view. From the tip of the peninsula one can barely see the walls and orange roofs of Dubrovnik jutting into the sea up the coast.

The Albatros is located about 3/4 of a mile from the actual village, and a pleasant, curving walk of about 15 minutes will take you past cliff residences, shops and restaurants, on a one lane blacktop road that is also used by an occasional car. Many people here speak English.

Breakfast and dinner were included in our booking and are served buffet style.

Photos top to bottom

A few pleasure boats bouyed in the harbor

View of Cavtat from across the harbor

Promenade and sidewalk with outdoor tables

Santa Fe Back Roads

2008-01-27T08:47:00.000-08:00

SANTA FE NATIONAL FOREST, New Mexico

The rain came down in torrents for 10 minutes, almost blinding me, in spite of the frantic pace of the windshield wipers, then stopped as quickly as it had begun. In another 20 minutes the thirsty earch and dry air had sucked up the moisture so efficiently there was scarcely any evidence of the cloudburst. By the time I got to the top of the mountain at 10,000 ft. the ponderous grey-blue rain cloud had passed, the sky was clear, the sun shining again. The end of a typical New Mexico mountain squall.

The scent of horses and Ponderosa Pine were in the air as I climbed out of the car, and I noticed the birch trees at this altitude were just beginning their fall fade to yellow, even now in mid-August. Nevertheless, the temperature here was a welcome relief from the 97F I had left at the 6,900 level in Pecos. It seemed at least 10 degrees cooler at the top.

Route 63 to the top of the mountain

A ranger at the Pecos National Monument had suggested I follow New Mexico Route 63, most of which was within the Santa Fe National Forest, up to its dead end at the top. He'd promised a scenic drive and it was. This the was the southern edge of the Sangre de Christo mountain range, and several 12,000 ft. peaks were nearby as I surveyed the horizon. Although I had passed campers fishing in the Pecos River alongside the road, the farther up the mountain I went the more the traffic thinned.

Wilderness trailheads here

The land at the top looked as if it had been cleared of timber some years ago to make room for temporary horse corrals, and a number of horses stood there now following my progress across the parking area. There was a wilderness trailhead here and the place was obviously used as a staging area for mounted treks into the wilderness. It's a pleasant drive as long as you don't mind hairpin turns, an occasional cloudburst and a few stomach-clenching drop-offs at the side of the road.

Back roads more interesting

Although Santa Fe achieved its panache some time ago as a chic art center and expensive resort area I found the back roads more interesting. A tourist information booth is conveniently located in the town square and can provide maps and suggestions for exploring. Along the Turquoise Trail (named for turquoise mines, but known also for its gold, silver, coal, zinc and lead), the old mining towns of Golden, Cerrillos and Madrid have their own charm, and Route 14 takes you through sparsely populated rolling hills dotted with juniper, piñon, and squat, branching cholla cactus growing in sand colored soil. The bluish San Pedro mountains can be seen from one side and reddish mesas and rock outcropping on the other.

Cerrillos scene of "Lonesome Dove" series

Cerrillos is nearly a ghost town, a few lazy dogs lounging in shady spots and a scattering of businesses. The town's claim to fame is as a setting for a number of Westerns, including the TV series, "Lonesome Dove". The little private museum with a petting zoo tells the interesting history of the town whose hills once bore some of the finest turqoise in the world.

Madrid artist funky

Madrid is a funky town that was taken over by artists and artisans a number of years ago, and some of the hold homes on the main drag have been restored as shops. In the 1930s it was also known for its extraordinary display of Christmas lights, and according to one guidebook, commercial pilots would detour through the area so passengers could view it from above. Even now residents display lighting, some of which is left waiting from one Christmas to the next.

Santa Fe Southern RR sightseeing

The Santa Fe Southern Railway offers a 13 mile sightseeing run from downtown Santa Fe to Lamy, which used to be a spur on the old Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad. Movie stars were said to disembark at Lamy for Santa Fe long before the town became the posh retreat of today.

Indian Pueblos

There are 9 Indian Pueblos located near Santa Fe, all of them currently occupied by ancestors of the Indians who have lived in the Southwest for many centuries. Bandelier National Monument is located in the Frijoles Canyon, an area of extraordinary natural beauty and preserved 13 Century pueblo ruins, cliff dwellings, petroglyphs and pictographs.

Pecos National Historical Park pueblo had become one of the richest and most powerful Southwestern pueblos by the middle of the 15th Century, housing 2,000 people. Several kivas (underground ceremonial rooms) have been reconstructed and are accessible to visitors by ladder.

Bed & Breakfasts may be cheaper alternative

I stayed at Spencer House Bed and Breakfast (now the Adobe Star Inn), a pleasant and comfortable adobe cottage conveniently located only several blocks from the center of town. An upscale alternative is the Inn of the Anasazi, or try New Mexico Bed and Breakfast Association.

Tomasito's Mexican restaurant, arguably the best Mexican place in Santa Fe, is located next to the train station. It's jammed every evening, so they give pagers to guests and let them wander. I found it's worth the wait!

Photos top to bottom

Adobe Star Inn B&B

Storm clouds form over mountains

Reconstructed kiva in Pecos National Historical Park

Ancient Indian ruins, Pecos National Historical Park

Dubrovnik: The Crown Jewel Of Croatia

2008-01-26T10:53:00.000-08:00

DUBROVNIK, Croatia

This city is the crown jewel of Croatia, an ancient walled city that juts out into the Adriatic and is the economic, cultural and educational center of southern Dalmatia. The southern Dalmatian Coast is a narrow strip of land, with a Mediterranean climate, that extends down a beautiful high cliff coastline southeast to the Montenegrin border and is separated from Bosnia-Herzegovina by the Dinaric Range of mountains. The road down the coast is high atop the cliffs and provides breathtaking views of Dubrovnik, far below, as one approaches. We took advantage of a viewpoint to get out and snap pictures.

Lonely Planet Croatia guidebook says this: "The thick stone walls have protected the city for seven centuries against assault, proclaim invincibility in the face of aggression...The way in which the towering walls both define and blend into the landscape of sea, sky and hills is an argument for a human presence that enhances rather than spoils the environment."

View is striking no matter where you look

This latter part of the description is what struck me when I got to the top of the wall at the beginning of a walk around the entire city, which takes a little over an hour. The view almost took my breath away, and no matter where you are on the walk over the wall, the views are equally breathtaking. It is a truly beautiful city.

Though heavily shelled and bombed by the Yugoslav army during the civil war that began in 1991, Dubrovnik, thankfully, had been almost completely restored when we were there, the last of the damaged red tile roofs replaced with orange, which were donated by other countries. Parts of the wall, too, were obviously new.

By the end of the 12th Century the city was an important trading center, giving Venice, another commercial center, a run for their money. Dubrovnik eventually came under Venetian authority in the 13th Century, for 150 years, and as a result, feelings are still raw.

Old city closed to cars; it's pleasant exploring

There is the Old Dubrovnik and the New Dubrovnik, and the New City commercial center on the opposite side of highway is totally lacking in charm. The Old City is closed to cars and is divided by a wide street called the Placa, that crosses the city from east to west, between the two city gates. Shops and restaurants line both sides. There are no hotels in the Old City itself, but outside the wall there are several luxury hotels, for the whole coast depends a great deal on tourism. I was with a tour group, and we stayed in the little town of Cavtat, about 12 miles down the coast, where there are numerous places to stay.

Earthquake destroyed city

A terrible earthquake destroyed the city in 1667, and when it was rebuilt the Gothic and Renaissance building fronts were replaced by stern and modest Baroque. The Sponza Palace was the only building to be preserved in its original shape. There are many interesting, historical buildings to explore.

Find a restaurant on the second level and relax

Off the Placa and between buildings are open stairways leading to a second level where you can find numerous restaurants, many of which conduct their businesses entirely from outside tables. Inside they may have restrooms, but this is primarily where the cook prepares the food, not where the customers sit. Proprietors stand in front of their businesses and try to lure you with menus they push into your hands. Don't stop at the first one--by all means, look at all the menus (and a proprieter who speaks English) and then pick the one that appeals to you. Sit down under an umbrella, away from the hot sun, and enjoy a leisurely lunch or dinner.

Photos (from top of wall) top to bottom
View of Dubrovnik from the road above
Outdoor restaurant
The Placa, main throughfare
View from across city to Adriatic

Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina

2008-01-25T15:16:00.000-08:00

MOSTAR, Herzegovina

Mostar was the economic, political and cultural center of Herzegovina before the civil war in 1991. Christians, Muslims, and Orthodox Serbs lived in harmony. When I was there in 2005 the center of the city was just a shell of what it had been--blackened, hollow hulks of bombed out buildings where department stores and other commercial establishments once stood.

Bullet and shell holes scar those

buildings still standing. From what I hear it is still not rebuilt.

Scenic setting in Neretva Valley

The city is built amid beautiful scenery on the Neretva River, which flows through a canyon that carves the city into two parts, surrounded by mountains. A modern highway follows the Neretva valley connecting Sarajevo and Mostar with the Adriatic, and passes through valuable agricultural land that produces vegetables and fruit, especially cherries, apricots, figs, peaches, and grapes for wine.

Settled by Romans, Croats, Turks

There are many signs in the area of prehistoric man, such as hill forts and remains of towns. The Romans arrived in the 2nd century B.C., later the Croats, and finally the Turks in the 15th century. The first bridge across the Neretva was made of chains, but the Turks built what was called the Old Bridge in the 16th century. The city's strategic location for trade made for quick expansion, and the economic system was based on feudal estates, landowners and serfs. Turkish occupation and Turkish architectural influence, including Muslim mosques, lasted until 1878 when Austro-Hungarian occupation took place.

Unfortunately, our visit was only too short--just a day trip--but it is definitely a destination I would like to explore further when an opportunity arises again.

City recovering after 1990s civil war

After World War II Mostar became the center of the aluminum, aircraft and textile products as well as the fruits and vegetables that were grown on plantations. The civil war in the 1990s took more than 2000 lives and 26,000 refugees escaped to foreign countries. More than 5,000 buildings in the interior of the city were destroyed. The European Union established an administration in Mostar immediately after the peace agreement in 1994.

Outdoor market attracts tourists

Today a new Old Bridge exists where the original was destroyed by bombs, and the market place alongside the river has been largely rebuilt and attracts tourist crowds. Shops, merchandise and food stalls line both sides of the cobbled walk, and one can purchase a burek, similar to a turnover, to eat as you browse the merchandise, or sit down to a Turkish coffee within view of the bridge and river.

Slideshow: At Picasa, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Photos top to bottom:
Market from the new Old Bridge
Newly repaired buildings have been painted bright colors
Some of the building still show signs of the war
The new Old Bridge over the Neretva River

Northumberland: Land of Castles Near A 19th Century Town

2008-01-25T08:26:00.000-08:00

ROTHBURY, Northumberland

As the crow flies Rothbury is about 20 miles from the Scottish border, next to Northumberland National Park and the scenic Cheviot Hills. We stayed a week in a rented "cottage", a misnomer to American ears since the word is usually associated with a small, free standing dwelling. This cottage consists of living quarters attached to a much larger house called the Pele Tower, (formerly Whitton Tower), the rectory of Rothbury from the late 14th century until 1937. It is located in the tiny village of Whitton, across the Coquet River (pronouned COCK-it) from the town of Rothbury.

The Pele Tower one of few "peles" remaining in England

The tower is a restored "pele" (pronounced PEEL), one of a few remaining in Northumberland. Peles resemble Norman castle keeps, usually three or four story shelters with three foot thick walls used as temporary defenses against mauraders from Scotland who killed farmers and rustled livestock. I spotted several pele ruins as I drove throughout the countryside.

Pele Tower is owned by David and Anne Malia, affable, amiable hosts who do their best to make your stay pleasant, and they love to host Americans. Their rental unit is one of the most comfortable we've stayed in, and their kitchen, while rustic in appearance, is fully equipped with all the latest gadgets. David is happy to relate the history of his home and tower. In the back yard a round tower 30 feet high is a local landmark called Sharp's Folly, after Dr. Thomas Sharp, an 18th century rector who had it constructed. He studied the occult in his spare time, and the tower is thought to have been an observatory of sorts.

Countryside remains one of the least spoiled in England

The surrounding countryside varies from rolling hills with sheep grazing between drystone walls, to the deep evergreen forests of Northumberland National Forest, to high, windswept moors, all within a few miles driving distance of the craggy headlands overlooking the North Sea. This area remains one of the wildest and least spoiled in England, yet is known for some of the most famous tourist sites in the country.

Home to famous castles and Hadrian's Wall

Northumberland is home to about 15 castles, some of them in ruins. One of the most famous and most photographed is Baumburgh Castle (pronounced BAUMburra), situated on a basalt outcrop overlooking the sea. Excavation has revealed the site has been occupied since the 1st century B.C., first by Ancient Britons, then Romans, Anglo-Saxons, and finally the English. Legends couple the name of King Arthur with Baumburgh. The castle fell into ruin over the centuries but was finally restored in Queen Victoria's rein when it was sold to a nobleman.

The haunting remains of Dunstanburgh Castle stand on a coastal headland in a region historically remote and difficult to access. The stormy North Sea pounds the rocky shoreline below its walls. The easiest way to get to the castle is to park your car in Craster, the nearby village, and walk in. A path follows the shoreline through barren fields of grazing sheep, the castle slowly materializing in front of you. It's worth the half mile or so hike. This castle lasted only 150 years, a victim of the dynastic War of the Roses in the 15th century.

Alnwick Castle (pronounced ANNick) still remains the home of the current Duke of Northumberland, and part of the castle is open to the public. It is located in the town of Alnwick, just a short distance from Rothbury.

Hadrian's Wall is now a World Heritage Site. The Roman emperor Hadrian had the wall constructed as a defense across the entire width of northern England--73 miles at that point. It was started in 122 A.D., took six years to build, and stood until the 5th century. Much of the wall unfortunately has been dismantled over the years and used in other building projects, but parts are still intact and is an impressive site.

Northumberland a part of rural Old England

Rothbury is a small town of 1,700, neatly preserved as 19th century, with a central commercial district where you can find just about anything you want within a few blocks, from groceries and bakeries to hardware and a decent restaurant.

This is a part of England that brought smiles to my face, with place names like Shilbottle, Kershopefoot, Ogle and Snitter, and where the slow lane on the A1 expressway is signposted the "Creepers Lane".

Photos top to bottom:

Our rental "cottage" at the Pele Tower was inside the conservatory at the center of main house

Rothbury town center

Hadrian's Wall

Baumburgh Castle

Dunstanburgh Castle

Two Weeks On A Container Ship In The Caribbean

2007-12-30T14:36:00.000-08:00

HOUSTON, Texas

How to feel like a kid again? Well, I suppose that depends on the person, but for me it was the minute I boarded the freighter at Barbours Cut, the Houston ship channel. I was practically giddy with delight! I have no desire to be a passenger on any kind of cruise ship--pampering is not my thing--but freighter travel has always brought forth an image of old fashioned romanticism and rugged individualism. To be on the open seas in a real ship and not just a floating hotel is the epitome, in my mind, of man vs. the power of the elements. When I found a trip lasting only 21 days I grabbed it, for most are for months at a time.

The crew's night was just beginning

So there I was, about 10:00 p.m. one humid October night, boarding a freighter headed south down the coast of Mexico and South America. When I stepped aboard the ship seemed almost a living creature; engines vibrating, crew busy loading the ship with cargo--each going about his individual tasks--captain sequestered in the officers' day room going over the manifesto with immigration authorities. When most people inland were settling down for the night, the work was just beginning on board, for the ship had docked only a short time before and would not get under way again until the following morning.

Our ship accommodated only three passengers

I had met my two fellow traveling companions earlier when all of us waited at the Seafarer Center, a sort of way station and small store for ship crews. The ship had been expected earlier, so we had a chance to talk. The ship accommodated only 3-4 passengers, which was fine with me, since I wasn't there for the social life. The other two passengers were men, Jim from New Jersey and Guy from Colorado. We ate all our meals together in the officers' mess, but the rest of the time we did our own thing, occasionally running into each other on deck or on the bridge.

Hurrican Katrina truncated our trip; Wilma slowed us down

Our trip was to consist of seven ports of call: Altamira and Veracruz, Mexico; Puerto Limon, Costa Rica; Manzanillo, Panama; Cartagena, Columbia; Puerto Cabello, Venezuela; and Caucedo, Dominican Republic.

That was the plan when I signed up, but by the time we boarded in Houston the last two ports had been dropped from the itinerary, due to complications from Hurricane Katrina, that infamous storm that had struck just a few weeks before and caused billions of dollars of damage to the Gulf coast of the United States and New Orleans.

By the time we approached the Yucatan Peninsula after our port calls in Mexico, the tail end of Hurricane Wilma was causing us some rough seas and caused me some concern. As I lay in my narrow bunk that night I could feel the engines cut back on our speed even more than they had during the day. The ship pitched and rolled in a way I never expected from a ship almost 500 feet long and loaded with containers. I had long since ceased trying to pick up my belongings that had been flung to the floor of my cabin.

On deck during the storm

During daylight hours, hanging onto an outside deck rail and watching the sea was fascinating as well as mesmerizing--the rhythmic shuddering plunge of the bow into troughs, sending mountains of spray clanging off the forward containers and then bucking upward again, occasional bursts of spray hitting me in the face. Did it really get worse at night or did it only seem that way because we couldn't see?

I had brought all manner of seasickness remedies with me and was surprised but relieved when I didn't get seasick. The three of us compared notes at breakfast the following morning and neither Jim nor Guy had been sick either, unusual for passengers who weren't accustomed to violent seas. Our captain and first mate were having breakfast at the same time and Jim made some remark to the captain about the weather the night before. The captain was Polish but spoke good English and had an impish sense of humor. He protested, "You think this bad weather? This good for sleep! Rock like baby!" and laughing heartily, he crooked his arms into the shape of a cradle and rocked them back and forth.

Freighter travel not for everyone

Freighter travel is not for everyone--only for those who are fully capable of entertaining themselves, whether by reading, writing, playing Solitaire or just watching the sea. It is a totally relaxing experience. For shore excursions the captain advised us to keep together, which we did, but with the weather, even in October, hot and humid, I was always happy to get back to my air conditioned suite, sometimes earlier than the men.

Even going ashore meant arranging for your own taxi, since there are no guided tours. The captain helped out by giving us advice on how to avoid food that might make us sick, and how to bargain for sightseeing tours. Many taxi drivers hang out at the docks when ships are expected, for there are sure to be crew or passengers who desire shopping or sightseeing.

My trip was arranged by TravLtips. Would I go again? In a New York minute!

Photos, top to bottom
The Lykes Commodore
My living room in the owner's cabin
Tugs guiding ship out of harbor

Doolin, Ireland: A Mecca For Irish Music

2007-12-29T05:07:00.000-08:00

DOOLIN, Ireland

There are things you never know about a place until you get there, especially if you hadn't planned to go there in the first place. That's what I love most about independent travel.

Decision about weather wasn't a good one

We arrived in Doolin because I was hoping for a change in the weather by driving south. The weather had worsened up the coast in Clifden, where we'd been staying, so perhaps with an unconscious American West Coast mentality we thought it would be better farther south. (That kind of thinking goes like this: If the weather is bad on the Washington coast--which is pretty typical--it's usually pretty good on the Oregon coast.) Bad thinking for Ireland. If anything, it was worse.

The weather , however, made an excellent stage for observing the Cliffs of Moher nearby. It's a place where people are blown off the edge, never to be seen again, so I stayed well behind the safety rope!

Aran Islands looked a good bet on the map

I'd looked at the guidebook and decided a ferry trip to the Aran Islands would be fun, and the ferry left from Doolin. But by the time we'd checked into our hotel and I'd gone off to the ferry terminal to reconnoiter, a sign had been posted on the door saying all ferries had been cancelled for the following day. It shouldn't have been any surprise. When I got out of the car at the hotel the wind nearly ripped the car door off and the sea was roiling with ominous whitecaps. The lady at the reception desk seemed to take my appearance in stride, although my face was barely visible through the mass of tangled, wind-lashed hair, and when I breathlessly asked "Is it like this much of the time?" she answered with a stiff smile and a curt "Not all the time." People are sensitive when tourists complain about "their" weather. As if they alone were responsible.

We discover McDermotts Pub at the beach

We had a late dinner at McDermotts Pub down at the beach and discovered through conversations with people at neighboring tables that if we hung around until about 10:00 p.m. we would be treated to a jam session of Irish music. Who could resist that bit of dangled excitement? We further learned that Doolin is the home of Irish music, although since passing that bit of information on to others I have heard many Irish towns make the identical claim.

All the same, it was a treat and the beer was good. With Irish music it's impossible to sit still, of course, so I just took my camera and walked around snapping photos from every angle and watching people's happy faces. Music does something wonderful to people!

We never got to the Aran Islands, but the trip south was still worth it.

Photos:

Cliffs of Moher near Doolin

McDermotts Pub

Cooking In Provence

2007-12-28T11:08:00.000-08:00

NYONS, France

For sheer enjoyment I signed up for a cooking class in Provence, which turned out to net me nada as far as extending my cooking skills but was mucho in the way of fun. (It did nothing for my French, either!)

The group met in Paris, where we caught a flight to Marseilles, then a bus to Nyons. All the way there I was keeping my fingers crossed that we weren't being booked into a formula type hotel, because I always seek out "small" and "local", and sure enough, the bus pulled up in front of a small French hotel, The Colombet, right on the square in the center of town, and it was perfect. It's one of those three star hotels that is just a little bit more than just three stars!

We were anything but professional!

We were to learn how to put together complete meals of French cuisine, tutored by professional chefs in their own kitchens. They provided the recipes--usually a main dish and a dessert--and guided us through the preparation which was later served to us in the main dining room. If we didn't always perform like professional chefs (one fellow classmate and I couldn't stomach the sight of rabbit carcasses that had been skinned and gutted for our preparation of the day, so sat out the main dish!) we at least looked the part with our aprons and paper hats and had an enormous amount of fun in the process.

Nyons was a market town and market day in Provence is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. Everything from soap to bouillabaisse was for sale: fresh fruit and vegetables; cheeses; dried beans and lentils of all kinds; meats; fish; breads; spices and essential oils; jewelry and leather goods; fabric; baskets; and clothing. I had never seen such artistry, variety and color displayed in an open street market.

Cooking wasn't the only offering

On days we didn't cook we had other activities: a walking tour of Nyons; a visit to a goat farm, which included cheese sampling; wineries, which involved wine tasting; a lavender distillery tour, which was fascinating; and lectures by various experts.

One night the eight people in our class talked one of our chefs into opening the dining room of his hotel (Une autre maison) on a night it was scheduled to be closed to the public. Our party of eight were the only guests, and the service and food were to die for! I asked to see many of the rooms, and in addition to being able to unreservedly recommend the food I would also recommend the rooms. It is a charming, small hotel in a quiet neighborhood just a few blocks from central Nyons.

A glorious way to spend a week!

To those of us escaping from the March chill at home it was a glorious way to spend the week. While waiting for our lunch to be served one day our group of eight was gathered around a table on the sunny, warm terrace of the little mountain inn where we'd been assigned to cook. I looked out over the bucolic scene; the sun shining on green hills dotted with olive groves and tiny farms, an occasional bleating of goats the only sound above our own voices, and almost had to pinch myself. I was familiar with California beaches and Arizona deserts at this time of year, but never, in my wildest dreams, would I have pictured myself in Provence, overlooking such beauty. Life was good!

Expert experience not always necessary

So don't accept that all cooking classes, courses, etc. are for serious cooks. Just ask. Some of them can be just for fun, although an interest in food usually helps.

Photos top to bottom:

Nyons, France

Market day in Nyons
We at least looked professional

Our cooking group takes a break before lunch

The North York Moors and Tales of Smuggling

2007-12-27T14:51:00.000-08:00

ROBIN HOOD'S BAY, Yorkshire, England

Why is it that tales of tax evasion, a serious offense against any government, tends to bring smiles to our faces? Maybe because most of us consider it to be a victimless crime--the only "victim" being the country's treasury--or maybe for Americans it's because the Boston Tea Party, a revolt against unfair taxation, plays large in our history.

Coastal villages infamous for smuggling

The North York Moors and the picturesque villages and towns along the northern coast of England all have delicious tales of smuggling--to avoid paying taxes--and none more resourceful than those of Robin Hood's Bay. (Surprisingly, the name has nothing to do with the legendary Robin Hood.)

The village cottages spill down to the sea, hugging the cliffs and butting up against one another so that the first floor of one could look into the second story of the next one down the hill. Many of the original houses have been lost--washed away during fierce storms--compliments of a raging North Sea. The streets are narrow and one lane, so no one is allowed to park for more than a few minutes. Walking the street downhill to the beach you're convinced you're going to get shin splints, and the trip back up is sure to cause your calf muscles to protest.

The hardy fishermen of Robin Hood's Bay, or "Bay" as it is known to locals, had something besides fishing in mind when they headed for the open seas, for in the 18th Century the village was headquarters for the most powerful gang of smugglers on the northeast coast, with many villagers as accomplices.

Contraband smuggled up through tunnels, secret passages

Tea and other contraband from the Continent were regularly transferred, usually under cover of darkness, from ships to small boats, then unloaded on the beach. The goods were handed off up the hill through tunnels and secret passages within houses, sometimes never seeing the light of day until they reached the top of the cliff. From there wagons would transport them across the moors to waiting customers.

Whitby home of explorer James Cook, 13th C abbey

Whitby, the largest nearby city, is a resort town now, densely packed during summer months, but I was there in September with a friend. It was the home of explorer James Cook, and the ruins of the 13th Century Whitbey Abbey are starkly visible overlooking the city from a wind-swept hill. Down near the harbor sight seeing buses run fairly regularly and it's an efficient way to see the city. I would recommend it.

Red House Farm our base

Our base was an imaginatively furnished converted barn at Red House Farm, owned and operated by Tom and Sandra Spashett, in Glaisdale, a tiny village within North York Moors National Park and eight miles from Whitby. Sandra is an American married to a native Yorkshireman and they offer lovely, comfortable B&B rooms in the farmhouse as well as another apartment/cottage next to ours in the barn. I can highly recommend this place.

North York Moors Railway offers old steam engine rides

The park has the largest expanse of heather moorland in England and Wales, some of it so wild and remote we saw Heathcliffe lurking near every ancient moors home. The North York Moors Railway, featuring a real steam train, offers an excellent ride through the moorland, from Grosmont (near the farm), or Whitby, to Pickering. It's a fun ride.

Photos, top to bottom

Robin Hood's Bay steep streets

Whitby Abbey overlooking the city of Whitby

Red House Farm Converted barn

Our living room in the barn

Clifden, A Pretty Town In Connemara On The West Coast of Ireland

2007-12-26T09:57:00.000-08:00

CLIFDEN, Ireland

It had been a pouring down, driving rain as we approached Clifden from the south through bogs where stacked piles of peat bricks dotted the fields. Beyond the fields on our left we caught fleeting glimpses of the roiling Atlantic. Occasional clumps of trees, already permanently bent from relentless winds, were thrashing wildly and I could feel that force on our small rental car as I kept having to correct the steering. But, as if on some kind of signal, as we reached the outskirts of the town the sky cleared and the late September sun appeared, low in the sky. A tall church steeple was visible above the trees.

A rented schoolhouse

We had rented a converted schoolhouse for a week, but before we went in search of it I suggested we look for a grocery store and stock up on supplies while the sun was still out. We found one right away, on the main street, and jockeyed for a parking space, for it was Saturday afternoon, and while the tourist crowd had thinned with the season the locals were out in force.

Clifden a colorful harbor town

Cliften was a neat, orderly town, with colorfully painted buildings lining the streets and a harbor full of pleasure boats bobbing on mooring bouys. I found it pleasant, in the days following, when it wasn't raining, to pass the time browsing the streets, window shopping, and after several barely passable pub meals we discovered Mitchell's, an excellent restaurant. (One pub meal consisted of lasagna that Stouffers would have put to shame--well, what did I expect in Ireland?--served with boiled potatoes and potato salad. A more than adequate carb fix for the day.)

We found the schoolhouse without much trouble. The owner had emailed photos of the interior, for there had been no website, and I'd booked it by phone only after I'd seen the photos--one of my ironclad rules after a few "sight unseen" mistakes. But there had been no photos of the exterior. In my mind I had envisioned it as being on the edge of town and more of a frame, house-like structure--a bit like the old fashioned one room schoolhouses in the U.S.

Even with pictures, not what we expected

In reality the schoolhouse was just a block up a well populated hill of residences in the center of town and resembled one of the early 20th Century two story school building we used to see in America. Originally the Church of Ireland Schoolhouse, it is the second oldest building in Clifden, built in 1825.

The driveway to the front door curved sharply upward and was bordered by rock walls with no place to turn around once you got to the top, which I discovered too late when I initially drove up to unload the groceries. When it came time to use the car again my husband--who leaves "wrong side" driving to me when we're abroad--had to get out of the car and move swiftly from one side of the car to the other, frantically directing me so I wouldn't slam into a rock wall on the way back down. Pulling into the drive backward didn't seem to work any better. There was no parking on the street and it got so I dreaded having to use the car at all. We finally ended up pulling into the drive just enough to keep the car out of the street and hoped that the park gear and hand brake were enough to keep it from rolling back.

To make a long story short, we didn't stay the entire week. Along with driveway problems the weather was horrendous, with intermittent rain and heavy winds, and when I attempted to go out with my umbrella one day it was quickly turned inside out and rendered useless. I arrived back at the schoolhouse drenched.

Drafts made showering seem like the open air

The place was cold and drafty upstairs (which wouldn't be a problem in warm weather) and curtains on the leaky, closed windows actually blew in the wind. I dreaded showering because it was a bit like being outdoors. The wind swept around the end of the shower curtain and by the time I got out I was shivering in the cold air, despite the warm temperature of the water. The front door key wouldn't work--of two doors it was the only door that was operational--and when we complained the owner told us to buy some WD-4o, which only partially solved the problem. This was not my idea of comfort! (It is under new management since we were there; hopefully improved.)

Beautiful countryside made up for less than cozy accommodations

On the other hand, during breaks in the weather our forays into the surrounding countryside provided us views of outstanding beauty. Driving northeast we found Killary Fjord, Ireland's only fjord, and followed it up to the small town of Leenane, where you can book cruises that follow the fjord to the sea. Doubling back we stopped at Kylemore Abbey, a huge castle originally built by an English doctor for his wife, set amid a stunning site of heavily wooded hills overlooking a large lake. It is now an international school run by Benedictine nuns, and a few rooms are open to the public. Another drive, through Connemara National Park was no less impressive, with looming, picturesque mountains on either side of the road that bisected peat bogs.

We ended up moving to a comfortable room in a resort on the other side of the harbor and then, after more sightseeing up the coast with no break in the weather forecast, went back south to Doolin before the week was up. (See Doolin Irish Music above.)

Photos top to bottom
Cliften town center
Schoolhouse where we stayed
Kylemore Abbey

Kent, The Garden Of England

2007-12-23T11:08:00.000-08:00

My cottage on left (Figtree) is attached to one in rear. I can highly recommend all of them at Gold Hill Mill farm.

TONBRIDGE, Kent

When it comes to exotic foreign taste Kent is about as plain vanilla as one can get. Just thirty miles southeast of London, the towns of Tonbridge and Tonbridge Wells are bedroom communities in an area known as the Garden of England. I had chosen to go there one spring and no matter where I looked the landscape was virtually carpeted with yellow daffodils and other flowering bulbs and bushes.

I had booked a week in a self-catering "cottage" on a 20 acre property called Gold Hill Mill in the countryside outside Tonbridge. This was my base to explore Kent and Sussex and I found even plain vanilla has its charm.

History of property dates back to 1066

Gold Hill Mill consists of a large red brick Georgian house attached to a mill, along with three period cottages charmingly converted from former outbuildings. The River Bourne--more of a stream at that point--flows into the mill itself, which dates back to Saxon times and was grinding corn when William of Normandy invaded England in 1066. The cottages are lovely and I can highly recommend them.

Oasthouses dot countryside

A unique feature of Kent and Sussex are the oasthouses that soon become evident as you drive through the countryside. Their unique shape was puzzling until I learned the purpose of the circular shaped brick buildings with conical roofs. They are used to dry hops, for Kent is also home to a large hops industry.

After harvesting the hops are placed on a grate in

the oasthouses, much like a kiln, and a wood fire is built underneath, the heat moving up through the hops and out of an opening in the top of the cone. The process takes from 14 to 16 hours, after which the hops are bagged in burlap sacks and sent to market. Many of these oasthouses have been converted into cottages that are rented out by the week.

Hever and Leeds Castles draw tourists

Wherever you go in England you're never too far from a castle, and my favorite in Kent is Hever Castle, the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, Henry VIII's famous second wife and mother of Elizabeth I. The castle had been deteriorating since the early 1700s when it was bought in 1903 by an American, William Waldorf Astor. Astor spent millions restoring the castle and grounds, and in 1963 opened it to the public. It has since been sold, along with its 3,500 acres, to a private company.

Leeds Castle is one of the most photographed castles in England, set on two islands in the middle of a lake and surrounded by 500 acres of park land. It is privately owned, with only a small portion open to the public for tours since the major portion of the castle is rented out for conferences and banquets.

Picturesque Rye attracted literary figures

The little town of Rye, on the East Sussex coast, is quite picturesque, with narrow, cobbled streets that are steep and winding with ancient, half-timbered buildings that lean askew. It is also a tourist mecca as the quintessential quaint English town steeped in history since before the Norman Conquest, and home at one time or another to a number of literary figures, including American writer Henry James.

Sussex is also renowned as the country retreat of Bloomsbury, the group of artists that included writer Virginia Woolf and her husband Leonard. Charleston, the country house owned by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, served as the meeting place for the unconventional group, and the home is open to the public with guided tours.

Thomas Paine excise officer in Lewes

Lewes (pronounced Lewis) is also a town with an interesting history, perhaps most famously remembered for the house in which Tom Paine lived between 1768 and 1774 as an excise officer. After writing his first pamphlet advocating reform of the Excise Service he emigrated to the New World where he championed American independence and wrote the great democratic text 'Rights of Man', which fueled the French Revolution.

The town has also preserved the Anne of Cleves House, now a museum. Anne was the 4th wife of Henry VIII, who gave the house to her as part of his divorce settlement, although there is some doubt as to whether she actually lived there.

Private gardens open for charity

The National Gardens Scheme is a charitable trust which raises money solely by opening private gardens to the public, from April through September, and a pamplet listing the gardens is available through many Tourist Information offices and booksellers. These gardens, as well as Sissinghurst Castle Gardens, the famous garden created by Vita Sackville-West and her husband Harold Nicolson, are major reasons to visit Kent. Most hadn't opened yet when I was there, but the owner of one beautiful estate agreed to admit me anyway. The manicured grounds were impressive, but only succeeded in making me aware of my inadequacy as a gardener! Charges vary, depending on the garden, from $4 to $10.

Photos top to bottom
Figtree cottage
Leeds Castle
An oasthouse converted to a guest cottage
Rye street